Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
1870s Gothic building with an oddly haphazard appearance: every farm in the
neighbourhood donated a lump of its own granite towards the construction, but none
of the bits matched.
Don't be put off by the yeti-sized puffin plonked at the entrance to the sanctuary. This
non-profit-making place is a wildlife sanctuary for endangered animals, where animal
welfare takes priority over human voyeurism. Red pandas, lynxes, snow leopards and
arctic foxes are among the rare creatures being bred and reared in a mountainous
landscape of dense forest and grassy clearings that's kept as close as possible to the
animals' natural habitat. The enclosures are so large, and the paths and bridges across
the site so discreet, that it's a good idea to bring a pair of binoculars with you.
Smögen
Fifteen kilometres west of Nordens Ark along the coast, the old fishing village and island
of
SMÖGEN
is one of the most picturesque and enjoyable destinations in the whole of
Bohuslän. Today, the village is an attractive mix of shops and boutiques in old seafront
wooden houses, fronted by a quay that runs for several hundred metres that's famous
across Sweden and known as the
Smögenbryggan
. Smögen first hit the big time in the late
1960s as tourists began to discover its unassuming charms. Then, during the 1970s, it
became the number-one summer destination for Swedish teens and 20-somethings who
came here to party all night long in the countless bars that once lined the jetty. Things are
quieter now and Smögen, though still busy, is once again regaining its dignity. When it
comes to
beaches
, most people take the boat (every 30min; 10min; 80kr return) from the
harbour to the tiny, low-lying island of
Hallö
where the smooth, flat rocks that make up
the entire island, which is also a nature reserve, are perfect for sunbathing and swimming.
4
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
SMÖGEN
By bus
It's a straightforward journey from Lysekil (1hr
15min) involving a change of buses (the #850 from Lysekil,
then the #862 from Hallinden to Smögen).
By car
From Lysekil, you'll have to return on Route 162,
then take Route 171, as there is no crossing over
Åbyfjorden. Smögen is linked to the mainland and its
neighbour, Kungshamn, by bridge.
Tourist o
ce
Back on the mainland in Kungshamn, at
Bäckevikstorget 5 opposite the bus station (late June to mid-
Aug Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 10am-3pm;
mid-Aug to late June Mon-Wed & Fri 9am-5pm, Thurs
9am-1pm;
T
0523 66 55 50,
W
sotenasturism.se).
ACCOMMODATION
Makrillvikens
Makrillgatan
T
0523 315 65,
W
makrillviken.se.
For sensibly priced accommodation,
this youth hostel, located in a former wooden bathhouse
set amid rocky outcrops of granite, is hard to beat. It has
open sea views and a sauna right on the waterfront.
Another 100kr or so gets a double room with private
facilities. Dorms
300kr
, doubles
700kr
Smögens Havsbad
Hotellgatan 26
T
0523 66 84 50,
W
smogenshavsbad.se.
Set in an attractive fin-de-siècle
house bordered by granite boulders, this elegant hotel also
boasts a spa, lou
nge, and a good
restaurant and bar with
superb sea views.
1490kr/2380kr
EATING
Coffeeroom
Sillgatan 10.
By far the best café in the
village just 50m from the foot of Storgatan, serving
American-style eats such as breakfast pancakes, bagels,
chocolate cupcakes and peanut butter sandwiches though
its speciality is a great variety of milkshakes.
June-Aug
daily 9am-11pm.
Lagergrens
Madenvägen 12.
Close to
Skärets Krog
, this
is a more laidback establishment, good for a drink and
simpler mains like Caesar salad, chicken breast or glazed
tuna; reckon on around 250kr per main dish.
Mid-June to
mid-Aug daily 9am till late.
Skärets Krog
Madenvägen 1
T
0523 323 17.
Located
on the water, the most popular restaurant in the village is a
loud but thoroughly enjoyable place, particularly on a
balmy summer evening, and is renowned for its excellent
fish dishes, such as grilled saithe, which cost around 300kr.
June-Aug daily 8pm-3am.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT
MARSTRAND(P.130); SELMA LAGERLÖF'S HOME, MÅRBACKA (P.142); FISKEBÄCKSKIL (P.133)
WROUGHT-IRON CROSS, EKSHÄRAD (P.143) >
