Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
gold-plated sconces, etched-glass mirrors with hand-carved wood frames and fresh
flowers at the ends of each pew. The luxuriance of the decor is thanks to donations
from Bohuslän's richest eighteenth-century landowner, Margaretha Huitfeldt, who also
paid for the wrought-iron and sheet-metal spire, crowned with a gold-plated
weathercock. The wooden, barrel-vaulted ceiling is worth a glance, too: it's covered in
eighteenth-century murals, the oddest aspect of which is the scattering of angels' heads.
Outside, in the graveyard close to the main door, is Wilhelmson's rather plain grave, his
likeness carved into the granite tombstone. More unusual is the grave in the far corner,
where an English officer and a German soldier, who died in the Great North Sea Battle
of 1916, were buried together.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
FISKEBÄCKSKIL
By bus From Marstrand, take bus #210 to Kungälvsmotet
then bus #841 to Bökenäs skola, where you change again
for the #845 to Fiskebäckskil - although this sounds
rather complicated, it's actually quite straightforward as
the buses connect with each other. The journey is
generally possible several times a day but since timings
change you should always check W vasttraik.se before
setting out.
By car Due to the fragmented nature of the coast, from
Marstrand first head back onto the E6, from where the
easiest approach is via Herrestad and Route 161 southwest
via Bökenäs.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Brygghuset Fiskebäckskilsvägen 28 T 0523 222 22.
Located on the marina below the church, this is the place
for a really exceptional fish supper: the pan-fried redfish
with scallops and mango is sensational. Mains cost 265-
295kr. Daily noon till late.
Gullmarsstrand Hotel Strandvägen 2 T 0523 66 77
88 . This hotel also boasts an excellent if expensive
restaurant (reckon on around 300kr for a main dish); the
menu changes frequently but there's an emphasis on fresh
fish and seafood such as halibut and scallops. Mon-Fri
noon-2pm & 6-8.30pm, Sat 6-8.30pm.
Gullmarsstrand Strandvägen 2 T 0523 66 77 88,
W gullmarsstrand.se. Located right on t he water, next to
the Lysekil ferry, this fine, stylish hotel, decked out in
minimalist Nordic furnishings, has plenty of light, airy
rooms looking out over the sea. 1595kr/1997kr
4
Lysekil
The largest coastal town in this area is LYSEKIL , at the tip of a peninsula with the
Gullmarsfjorden twisting to the east and the Skagerrak to the west. While the journey
into town by Route 162 does not reveal it as immediately attractive, Lysekil does have
plenty to recommend it.
Lysekils kyrka
Övre Kyrkogatan 2 • Daily: June-Aug 11am-7pm; Sept-May 11am-4pm
Walk up any set of steps from the waterfront and you'll reach the Lysekils kyrka , the
town's most imposing landmark and visible for miles around. It's hewn from the
surrounding pink granite, with beaten copper doors and windows painted by early
twentieth-century artist Albert Eldh.
Havets Hus
Strandvägen 9 • Daily: Feb to mid-June & late Aug to early Nov 10am-4pm; mid-June to late Aug 10am-6pm • 95kr
W havetshus.se
From the tourist office, it's a five-minute walk through the village to Havets Hus , an
amazing museum of marine life featuring no fewer than forty aquaria. The chief
attraction, though, is an 8m-long underwater tunnel, containing 140,000 litres of
saltwater and home to dozens of enormous fish, including sharks, that swim around you.
The beach and the waterfront
From Havets Hus, continue west along the shore and you'll reach the best beach in
town, Pinnevik, in about ten minutes. From here, a walking trail heads west across to
 
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