Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
cobbled streets. There are a couple of good cafés (see p.122) along the main
thoroughfare,
Haga Nygatan
, which is really somewhere to come during the day, when
there are tables out on the street and the atmosphere is friendly and villagey - if a little
self-consciously fashionable. Apart from the boutiques, which sell things like Art Deco
light fittings, calming crystals and nineteenth-century Swedish kitchenware, it's worth
noting the intervening apartment buildings; these red-brick edifices were originally
almshouses funded by the Dickson family, the city's British industrialist forefathers who
played a big part in the success of the East India Company - Robert Dickson's name is
still emblazoned on the facades.
Linné
To the west of Haga, the cosmopolitan district of
Linné
is named after the botanist
Carl von Linné, who created the system for classifying plants used the world over (see
p.96). To get here, turn south off Haga Nygatan into Landsvägsgatan, which joins up
with
Linnégatan
- the main thoroughfare. In recent years, so many stylish cafés and
restaurants have sprung up along the main drag that Linné is now considered
Gothenburg's “second Avenyn”, although without the attitude; the street is lined with
Dutch-inspired nineteenth-century architecture, tall and elegant buildings
interspersed with steep little side roads. However, it's the main roads leading off
Linnégatan, prosaically named First Long Street (Första Långgatan), Second Long
Street (Andra) and so on up to Fourth (Fjärde), that give the area its real character;
the not-very-long Second and Third streets contain a mix of dark antique stores,
basement cafés and sex shops.
On the left as you head up Linnégatan towards Järntorget is the forbidding
building where King Oskar II had his private apartment - and his women. Directly
opposite is a modern apartment block that's worth a second glance; it replaced a
property whose republican owner so hated both the monarchy and the morals of
the king that he had a run of colourful ceramic panels depicting the devil
installed, facing the royal apartment. Sadly, the Gothenburg propensity for doing
away with its own past meant the “devil building”, as it was known, was recently
demolished, but two of the grotesque panels have been incorporated into the new
apartment block.
3
Slottskogsparken
A 5min walk south from Linnégatan or take tram #13 or #2 to Linnéplatsen •
Botanical Gardens:
Daily 9am-dusk; greenhouses May-
Aug daily 10am-5pm, Sept-April 10am-4pm • Gardens voluntary 20kr, greenhouses 20kr •
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gotbot.se
Slottskogsparken
is a huge, tranquil expanse of parkland with farm animals and
birdlife, including pink flamingoes in summer. On its south side are the impressive
Botaniska Trädgården
, a vast glasshouse akin to London's Kew Gardens, which, at
almost two square kilometres, are the biggest in Europe. The gardens hold some sixteen
thousand species of plants; highlights are some of Sweden's biggest orchids, the summer
flower plantations and the adjoining arboretum.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
GOTHENBURG
By plane
Gothenburg has two airports: Ryanair flights
arrive at Gothenburg City (also known as Säve;
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goteborgcityairport.se), 17km north of the city, and all
other airlines use Landvetter (
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swedavia.se), 25km east of
the city. Both airports are connected to Nils Ericsons
Terminalen by bus (from City airport after each flight arrival;
30min; 60kr; from Landvetter daily every 15-20min;
30min; 80kr).
By train
All trains arrive at Centralstation, which forms
one side of Drottningtorget.
Destinations
Copenhagen via Kastrup airport (hourly;
4hr); Kalmar (5 daily; 4hr); Karlstad (5 daily; 2hr 50min);
