Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Initially, the Muslim conquest of Damascus in 636 didn't affect the church and the building
was shared by Muslim and Christian worshippers. Under the Umayyad caliph Al-Walid,
the church was purchased from the Christians and between 706 and 715 the current mosque
was built in its place. At the time, Damascus was one of the most important cities in the
Middle East and would later become the capital of the Umayyad caliphate.
All women visiting the mosque were required to be covered, with only the face showing.
The several women in our group went to a special robing room where they were provided
with an all-enveloping grey cloak.
To enter the mosque, we joined a line that rapidly deteriorated into a surging mob grappling
its way through those departing. It was chaos, with much pushing and shoving before
breaking through into the spacious open area, floored with marble and surrounded by richly
decorated galleries. Here, people were strolling, standing and otherwise sitting in small
groups in the shade of the galleries.
There was a more subdued air in the inner mosque, featuring a dark patterned carpet
throughout, with groups and individuals praying or simply sitting around or meandering
through. Others were standing and bowing in the front of the tomb that supposedly held the
head of John the Baptist.
Our small group sat and watched and eavesdropped on the activities of others, with one
gathering in particular catching my attention.
Mohammed had been addressing us on various features of the mosque when I noticed a
nearby group was being addressed by a man standing in their midst. There was about thirty
of them. The women were dressed in black chadors and some of the men were wearing the
white prayer cap. All looked rather weather beaten as if they had worked outdoors all their
life. One got the impression of a group of middle aged and older country peasants on a pil-
grimage.
They seemed transfixed by the man addressing them. He was dressed in normal clothes
rather than religious attire and when I asked Mohammed what the man was saying, the re-
sponse was:
“I don't know, he's speaking Persian not Arabic”.
A second man took the place of the first and the diatribe continued but seemed to become
more urgent. Then suddenly the entire group burst out sobbing and weeping. It was stun-
ning and I held my breath at this display of extreme religious emotion.
