Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Our driver didn't speak English, requiring a number of three way phone conversations back
to the hotel before he was able to make sense of where we wanted to go. But it all worked
out in the end and after parking near the local Souk, he understood he was to wait for us,
regardless of how long it was before we returned.
The old town was picturesque and we negotiated our way up through the bustling Souk that
comprised an endless string of alleyways lined with small shops.
Being the only foreigners in sight, our presence attracted some curious looks. Many women
were shopping in groups; most of them were wearing headscarves and sometimes the full
veil. They were all nicely dressed, particularly the young girls and women and their cloth-
ing was modern and colourful.
At the other end of the Souk we came to a broad open square where groups of traditionally
dressed men were playing a form of board game. The hill facing the square was dominated
by tiers of old style Ottoman buildings with domed roofs, interior courtyards and tall arched
windows. It appears that these were some of the earlier palaces before Amman became the
capital. An effort was being made to restore them to their original glory, although the res-
toration still had a way to go.
We were looking for Christian churches, several of which were said to be in the town. An
English speaking local stopped and asked if he could be of assistance and, on hearing what
we wished to see, he pointed to some steps that would take us higher up the slope and near
to the Christian church. On the way up the steep steps, another passing local diverted us to
a mosque and an attendant ushered us in for a look.
It transpired that the Christian buildings were directly opposite the mosque and comprised
what had been an old English Hospital with a small church attached. The main gate was
open but everything else securely locked.
On turning to leave, we were stopped by a voice calling from a high window indicating that
he would come down and let us in. He was the caretaker, an Indian who had been in Salt
for several decades.
We didn't get into the church as the caretaker couldn't locate the keyholder, but he took us
through the rest of the complex, which was being progressively restored. The restoration,
being done by volunteer labour from overseas, was proceeding very slowly, but what had
been done so far had been done well.
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