Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
A Kurdish castle had been on the original site of the Krak, which had been granted to
the Knights Hospitaliers in 1142. The year after our visit, the Krak was recognized as a
UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has since been shelled and bombed from the air, as both
the Syrian government forces and the intangible and multi-faceted opposition have fought
over it.
While touring the Krak, we heard a young boy singing into the prayer niche that had been
added by the Muslims to the Christian chapel after 1271. His voice was angelic and the
acoustic effects of the echo were extraordinary. As often is the case, I had my whistle with
me and played a slow air at the same place. It was quite a task to control the echo but the
results were very satisfying.
Our travels made us much more aware of the extent of the historic network of Crusader
castles across Syria, Lebanon, Palestine and the Middle East. It also made us more sensitive
of the present day effect that the word Crusader has in the Middle East and in the Gulf.
We finished our trip to the Krak with an under-average and over-priced lunch in the only
restaurant in the area. It was located on a hill overlooking the Krak, which had the one,
dubious, saving grace of possessing the most amazing view of the Krak.
