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junior consul started to shout out names for those other people but there was no sign of the
visa window opening for us. The queue was quite good humored. A rotund, mustachioed,
consular official named Marwan, apologized with a smile and sense of humor when an hour
later our visas had still not arrived. Eventually, I got mine at around 3.00 p.m. and Peter
(whose number was next to mine) received his 45 minutes later at 3.45 p.m. He was the last
customer and I had covered many chapters of the excellent “From the Holy Mountain” by
William Dalrymple in the intervening time.
I suppose there was more than a slight element of tension during our extended wait, as we
were due to leave the following morning and Peter was also on a very tight timeline as he
would be embarking on a bigger and more important journey (emigration to Australia with
his family) on his return. Peter had already, reluctantly agreed to extend the visit from 3
days to 6 (in line with my proposed plans) and a further, minor complication was that a
local friend of his wished also to tag along but was well behind in his planning and prepar-
ations.
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