Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Don't be confused by the names of the destinations on a bus. It's common for a bus
travelling between, for example, Khorramabad and Ahvaz, to have 'Tehran-İstanbul' writ-
ten on the front or side in English. Similarly, phrases such as 'Lovely bus' are not always
a fair reflection of reality. There are no bus passes.
Bus Companies & Types
Most bus companies are cooperatives and were formerly known as Cooperative Bus Com-
pany No X (Sherkat-e Ta'avoni Shomare X), or whatever number it is. Most now have
more varied names, but in the terminal they might still direct you to, for example,
'ta'avoni hasht' (cooperative number 8). The best ta'avonis, with the most extensive net-
works, are TBT (Taavoni 15) and Iran Peyma (often with the word 'Ta'avoni' or 'Bus No
One' written on it).
For a bit more comfort Seiro Safar and Hamsafar offer newer, better buses for a little
extra cost, though most travellers don't bother seeking out a specific company and just
take whichever is the next bus going their way.
There are two main types of bus:
Mahmooly Meaning 'normal', these are Volvo, Scania or similar intercity coaches. The
driver is accompanied by one or two attendants, who hand out packaged food and handle
luggage. Most have toilets. Older, 1960s-era Mercedes mahmooly buses have mostly been
retired on account of their pollution.
VIP More luxurious because they have seats that recline almost fully and more service.
They operate on major routes, such as Tehran to Esfahan or Mashhad, and cost about 50%
more than a mahmooly .
Bus Terminals
Most bus terminals are located at the edge of town and are easily reached by shuttle or
private taxi. Some cities have more than one bus terminal; if in doubt, ask at your hotel or
charter a taxi to the relevant terminal. Tell the driver ' terminal-e (your destination)' and
he'll know where to drop you - pronounce 'terminal' with a prolonged 'aal' at the end.
Bus terminals are filled with the offices of individual bus companies, though timetables
are rarely in English. Just ask 'Shiraz?', 'Esfahan?' or wherever and you'll be directed to
the right desk, or listen for your destination being screamed out when a bus is about to
leave. Terminals always have somewhere selling food, and larger terminals might have a
police station, left-luggage facility and even a hotel.
If you're leaving a secondary town, such as Bam, Zanjan or Kashan, you may need to
go to a major roundabout to board a passing bus, rather than at the terminal. Locals will
point you to the right place.
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