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Accommodation
Iran has a reasonable choice of accommodation, from tiny cells in noisy mosaferkhanehs
(basic lodging houses) to luxury rooms in five-star hotels. Camping, however, is almost
nonexistent. The Orwellian-sounding Ministry of Culture & Islamic Guidance categorises
most hotels and decides what they can charge. Prices rise in April each year and the rates
are displayed (usually in Arabic numerals) at reception.
For many years foreigners paid more than Iranians for the same midrange and top-end
rooms, but this officially mandated dual-pricing ended in 2008.
While otagh (room) prices are fixed, friendly negotiation might save you a bit during
quieter times, especially between mid-October and early March. But don't count on it. The
reluctance to bargain is partly due to a lack of effective competition. For foreigners,
midrange and top-end places will sometimes quote prices in US dollars or euros, though
they accept (and are, in theory, required to be paid in) local currency.
Hotels will almost always keep your passport overnight so carry a photocopy, and get the
original back if you're heading out of town. Check-out time is usually 2pm.
If you get off the beaten track and are open to it, you'll likely encounter heart-warming
hospitality that sucks you into unplanned homestays. It's worth packing a few small
presents from home to express your gratitude, as paying cash for such accommodation
might be inappropriate.
HOW MUCH?
Accommodation in this topic is presented in order of preference, not budget. Prices vary across the country, with
Tehran usually the most expensive, Esfahan, Shiraz and Mashhad in the middle and less visited centres such as Ker-
man, Hamadan and Bandar Abbas cheapest. The following is a rough guide:
BUDGET
MIDRANGETOP-END
 
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