Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the better the quality. Nomad weavers tie around 8000 knots a day; factory weavers about
12,000 knots a day.
WHERE TO BUY YOUR PERSIAN RUG
Persian carpets come in almost as many different designs as there are ethnic groups and major urban centres. Usu-
ally the name of a carpet indicates where it was made or where the design originated. The bazaars are the best places
to buy and the experience of shopping, haggling and eventually buying is a memorable part of travelling in Iran.
»
»Tehran (
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)
With more than 3000 carpet merchants, this labyrinthine bazaar has the biggest range, most
competition and the lowest prices.
»
»Esfahan (
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)
Many travellers buy here because shopping around Naqsh-e Jahan (Imam) Sq is so enjoy-
able. Prices are a bit higher. Plenty of Esfahani city carpets are available, and the widest selection of Bakhtiyari rugs
from the nearby Zagros Mountains.
»
»Shiraz (
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)
Another pleasant place to shop, with evenings in the bazaar particularly atmospheric. Shiraz
has the best range of Qashqa'i rugs, runners, kilims and saddle bags, with their distinct geometric patterns, including
stylised animals and birds and floral designs in the borders, and fine
gabbeh,
small, thick flat-woven rugs with loose
pile.
»
»Tabriz (
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)
Huge range of carpets, from fine works in silk or with silk highlights, to simpler weaves from
regional villages and tribal groups.
Buying Carpets & Rugs
Iranians have had more than 2500 years to perfect the art of carpet-making - and just as
long to master the art of carpet-selling. If you don't know your warp from your weft, it
might be worth reading up before visiting Iran, or taking an Iranian friend when you go
shopping (bearing in mind that professional 'friends' who make a living from commission
are a fact of life).
If you know what you're doing you might pick up a bargain, but unless you're an ex-
pert, don't buy a carpet or rug as an investment - buy it because you like it. Before buy-
ing, lie the carpet flat to check for bumps or other imperfections. Small bumps will usu-
ally flatten out with wear but big ones are probably there to stay. To check if a carpet is
handmade, turn it over; on most handmade pieces the pattern will be distinct on the under-
side (the more distinct, the better the quality).
