Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
(saffron) is frequently used to add flavour and colour. If rice is served with a knob of but-
ter on top, blend this in as the Iranians do.
Tahdig,
the savoury crust from the bottom of
the rice pan, often including slices of potato, is a national favourite.
Kababs
Even in a restaurant with a long menu, most main-dish options will be kabab. These are
served either on bread or as
chelo kabab
(on a vast mound of rice), and in contrast with
the greasy doner kebabs inhaled after rough nights in the West, Iranian kababs are tasty,
healthy and cooked shish-style over hot charcoals. They are usually sprinkled with spicy
sumaq
(sumac) and accompanied by raw onion, grilled tomatoes and, for an extra fee, a
bowl of
mast
(yoghurt).
Common kabab incarnations include:
Bakhtiyari kabab
Lamb chops and chicken, the king of kababs.
Chelo kabab
Any kind of kabab in this list served with
chelo
(boiled or steamed rice); the
default option will be
kubide
if you don't specify.
Juje kabab
Grilled chicken pieces marinated in
somaq
.
Kubide kabab
The cheapest, most common version made of minced mutton, bread-
crumbs and onion ground together.
Non-Kabab Meals
For a change from kabab it's worth asking for
common stand-bys
zereshk polo ba morgh
(chicken on rice made tangy with barberries),
ghorme sabzi
(a green mix of diced meat,
beans and vegetables, served with rice) or vari-
ous mouthwatering vegetarian dishes made
from
bademjan
(eggplant).
A nationwide ban on smoking qalyan (water pipe)
in teahouses and restaurants was lifted in late 2011.
This Iranian tradition had been banned for health
reasons (though these effects have not been
proven), but the ban had been loosely enforced in
many provinces.
Khosh ma-ze'
means 'delicious'. Even if your Farsi
is terrible, being able to tell the chef their food is
khosh ma-ze
will be fun for you and greatly appre-
ciated by them.
