Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
IRAN'S AGE-OLD CELEBRATION OF THE NEW
YEAR
No Ruz literally means 'new day' and while the celebration is for Persian New Year, much of the traditional cere-
mony is about renewal and hope for the future. The roots of No Ruz stretch deep into history, with the spring equi-
nox (usually 21 March) having been celebrated since before Achaemenid times. It's a peculiarly Persian tradition
that has nothing to do with Islam - a fact many Iranians are proud of but which doesn't sit well with the Islamic
theocracy.
Haft Seen
No Ruz festivities stretch for about three weeks. Apart from frenzied shopping, the outward sign of No Ruz is
street-side stalls selling the
haft seen
(seven 's'es; seven, or sometimes more, symbolic items with Farsi names start-
ing with the letter 's'). Like a Christmas tree, they are supposed to be set up at home, though you'll see them every-
where from TV news studios to taxi dashboards. Today's most commonly seen
seen
, and their symbolic meanings:
»
»
sabzi
(green grass or sprout shoots) and
samanu
(sweet wheat pudding) represent rebirth and fertility;
»
»
seer
(garlic) and
sumaq
(sumac) symbolise hoped-for good health;
»
»
sib
(apple) and
senjed
(a dried fruit) represent the sweetness of life;
»
»
sonbol
(hyacinth) is for beauty
On many tables you'll also see
sekeh
(a gold coin, symbolising adequate income),
serkeh
(vinegar to ward off bitter-
ness), a mirror, a Quran and candles. You'll also see sorry-looking goldfish in tiny bowls symbolising life - until
they die in their millions after No Ruz.
Chahar Shanbe-soori
On the Tuesday night before the last Wednesday of the year
chahar shanbe-soori
(Wednesday Fire) sees people
sing, dance (men only) and jump over fires. The jumping symbolises the burning away of ill luck or health, to be re-
placed by the healthy redness of the flames. Unfortunately, actually finding a fire can be tough.
Chahar shanbe-soori
is viewed as a pagan festival by the government. When we have been fire jumping we've
seen open animosity between revellers and (half-hearted) police or Basij militiamen. Some towns have grudgingly
'approved' fire-sites, though visiting these can be deafening and rather hazardous due to the uncontrolled bursts of
fireworks. In many cities, however, fires are banned altogether; ask locally for the situation.
No Ruz
When No Ruz finally arrives, families gather around the
haft seen
table to recite a prayer seeking happiness, good
health and prosperity, before eating
sabzi polo
(rice and vegetables) and
mahi
(fish). Mothers are also expected to
eat symbolic hard-boiled eggs, one for every child. At the moment the sun passes the celestial equator (announced
on every radio station), people kiss and hug and children are given
eidi
(presents). For the following two weeks Ira-
nians visit relatives and friends in their home towns.
Sizdah be Dar
No Ruz celebrations finish on the 13th day of the year,
Sizdah be Dar
(usually 2 April). Everyone goes picnicking
out of town, taking their
haft seen sabzi
with them. The
sabzi
is either thrown into water or, in some cases, left to
blow off the roof of the car. Either way, the
sabzi
is meant to have soaked up the bad aspects of the previous year, so
this ceremony symbolises getting rid of bad luck.
