Northeastern Iran - Iran - page 527

( women-only at prayer times) behind you on the same courtyard, which has double-
level arch-vaults and fragments of beautiful calligraphy.
The finest gems are hidden behind the other two locked doors in the main iwan . Gate-
keeper Qolam Ali Keliddar (who you probably unwittingly met when bagging up your
shoes on entering the complex) has the keys. Technically he's only supposed to open the
chunky locks for VIPs or those with a letter from Miras Ferhangi. However, foreign tour-
ists are so rare that you'll probably be invited to enjoy green tea with him and visiting
Afghan Sufis. The small door on the left leads to the 14th-century Kermani Mosque ,
named after Masoud Kerman who created the splendid mihrab and calligraphy inside.
Through the heavy wooden main doors, the 1264 Khaneh Ghe sports ancient graffiti and
domed ceilings with particularly well-preserved colourful frescoes.
The complex is 700m east of Valiasr Sq via Mirqaveh, then Maadan Sts.

Sleeping

Mosaferkhaneh Me'at Dana$
( 222 7569; Natr St, Al Mahdi St, 2nd Alley; s/tw/tr with shower US$7/10/12, without
bathroom US$5/7/9) Clean simple rooms with camp beds and TV. Very close to central
Valiasr Sq.

MOSAFERKHANEH

HOTEL

Sima Hotel$
( 222 3377; Behesht 1st St, off Imam Khomeini Blvd; s/tw/tr US$8/11/12, without bath-
room US$7/ 9/10) Very green rooms with ageing linen but the better rooms have private
squat toilet and shower.

CROSSING THE AFGHANISTAN BORDER AT
DOGHARON

This old Hippie-Trail border ( 7.30am-4.30pm) is open and remarkably easy. Direct Mashhad-Herat buses run
twice each morning either way. Or do it yourself in hops via Torbat-e Jam and Taybad. Westbound savaris to the
border (135km, 300 Afghanis) leave from Herat's old bus terminal. Visas are not issued here.