Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
(Kakh-e Nader, Ghasr-e Khorshid; Imam Khomeini St; admission US$1;
7.30am-6.30pm)
Kalat's foremost sight is Nader Shah's Khorshid Palace, 700m beyond
the savari terminus. It's not really a palace at all but a distinctively fluted circular tomb-
tower, on an octagonal base set in beautifully manicured lawns. The name Khorshid (liter-
ally 'sun') refers to one of Nader's wives, not some arcane astronomical purpose. It was
never finished, hence the odd proportions and lack of a dome. Intricate exterior panels in-
clude pineapple and pear motifs. These fruits were unknown in 18th-century Khorasan,
suggesting that Nader Shah used foreign artisans he'd engaged (ie kidnapped) during his
Indian conquests. The tower's magnificent interior uses gilt and ample colour to bring life
to 16 stalactite-vaulted alcoves. Stairs beneath the rear terrace lead down into a graciously
cool
ethnology museum
(admission included)
, graphically depicting Khorasan village
life. A gift shop sells Naderabillia.
Facing the complex, an obvious 'Tourist Information' sign attracts visitors to Reza
Mortezabi's appealing little
herb shop
(Imam Khomeini St; 7.30am-noon & 4-8.30pm
Sat-Thu)
. Reza speaks good English but 'information' means a photocopied page from a
prehistoric Lonely Planet guide.
The beautiful blue dome, easily spied from the museum steps, belongs to the otherwise
modest 1747
Kabud Gonbad Mosque
(Imam Khomeini St)
.
Borg-argavan Shah
To fully appreciate Kalat's natural impregnability, backtrack 3km to the Mashhad road
tunnel. The cliffs here are otherwise only breached by a very narrow gully stream guarded
by the fortified Borg-argavan Shah, an iconic if small, round, mud-brick tower. Just bey-
ond this (visible from the streamside below) the
Katibeh Nader
is an inscription on the
cliff-face praising Nader Shah with poetry in Turkish and Farsi. Climb to various rocky
outcrops for spectacular views across the Darban village area ringed by bright-red laterite
slopes.
TOWER
Sleeping & Eating
Mosaferkhaneh Bahrami$
( 272 3298; Imam Khomeini St at 13th Alley; d/tr US$10/15)
Has pleasant rooms with
decent bathrooms and freshly laundered sheets. It's above an unmarked but popular res-
taurant with black-and-white trim, 200m from the savari stand.
A few snack shops and an unmarked basement for
abgusht
(lamb stew made with lentils,
potatoes and tomato paste) cluster round the savari stand.
MOSAFERKHANEH
