Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Nader Shah Mausoleum
(cnr Shirazi & Azadi Sts; admission US$0.50; 8am-6.30pm) Elsewhere in the Middle
East, Nader Shah is considered something of a historical tyrant. But here he's a local hero
for briefly returning Khorasan to the centre of a vast Central Asian empire. Nader's horse-
back statue crowns his otherwise rather dour 1950s grey-granite mausoleum, which was
designed to emulate the lines of a tent (reputedly Nader was born and died under canvas).
A small museum displays guns, a rhino-hide shield and four-pointed hats that must have
made Afshar-dynasty courtiers look like jesters.
MAUSOLEUM
Tours
Adibian Travel Agency
( 859 8151; www.adibiantours.com ; 56 Pasdaran Ave; 7.30am-8pm) A profession-
al English-speaking agency that offers tours in Mashhad (half day with/without guide
US$40/30) and well beyond (around US$75/65 per day); can arrange horse riding
throughout the region and has connections to the ranch and herds belonging to Louise
Firooz, a former American-Iranian princess who sadly died in 2008 but not before she
twice rescued the famous 'Caspian horse' breed from extinction. It has walking tours too.
TOUR
Towhid Foroozanfar
( 893 7025, 0915 313 2960; towhidfroozan@yahoo.com) A well-informed, engaging
driver-guide who has been recommended by readers.
GUIDE
Vali Ansari Astaneh
( 851 6980, 0915 100 1324; vali32@imamreza.net) Offers very inexpensive low-tech
walking, cycling and public-transport-based city tours, village visits, mountain walks and
a budget homestay.
TOUR
Sleeping
Timing is everything. In peak season, accommodation is jam-packed: prices can rise up to
800% in some cases (especially apartment-hotels), though others stay stable. Some hotels
discount in mid-winter.
Outside peak season many apartment-hotels are often fabulous value but standards vary
considerably and pricing is pretty random. Save a bundle by seeking out those in forgotten
smaller alleys. All those reviewed have hot shower and kitchenette.
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