Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
southeast past Tarikhuneh Mosque (400m) to the train station (2km), while the narrow
lane due east passes the Jameh Mosque (200m) and Pir Amadar (300m).
Attractive Azadi Blvd leads north from Chaharshir Sq, a pine-lined stream running
down its middle. It quickly passes an old (but out-of-bounds) caravanserai to the west and
shopping mall (Bazaar Khandaq) to the east. The latter contains friendly but slow Cof-
feenet Novin (internet per hr US$1; 8.30am-8pm Sat-Thu, 4-9pm Fri) .
Sights
Tarikhuneh Mosque
(Motahhari St; admission US$0.50; 8am-1.30pm & 3pm-dusk Sat-Thu) This is a
unique, partly ruined mud-brick structure with 18 extraordinarily sturdy rear columns that
date from about AD 760. That reputedly makes this the second-oldest mosque in Iran,
possibly having started life as a Zoroastrian palace-temple. The broken columns and
partly renovated arches of a colonnaded courtyard are similarly massive and undecorated.
But in striking contrast, the 30m-high AD 1038 brick minaret is very finely detailed.
Now slightly leaning, it's within the yard of a new mosque next door.
RELIGIOUS, SHRINE
Masjed-e Jameh (Jameh Mosque)
This mosque looks outwardly new but was founded a millennium ago. It has another fine
brick minaret probably dating from the mid-11th century. Continue walking along the
same lane to find the round Pir Alamdar tower. Dating from the AD 1020s, its original
conical roof has been replaced by a newer brick dome but the Kufic inscriptions are re-
markable and the interior is even finer.
The similar Chehel Dokhtar Tower hides behind the very photogenic Imamzadeh Ja-
far (Chaharshir Sq) , a splendid ancient brick building with round side-towers, arched
false-windows and a five-levelled dome culminating in a brick cone.
MOSQUE
Sleeping & Eating
HOTEL
Damghan Inn$
( 524 2070; fax 524 6800; Azadi Blvd; r US$35; ) With multiple-domed roofs,
this remarkably swish hotel is designed to faintly resemble a caravanserai while offering
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