Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
rooms face the woods with the murmur of streams. It's almost opposite Coffee Soufi cafe.
No English sign.
CAMPGROUND
Guri Camping$
( 553 0248; Valiasr St km6; pre-erected tents US$4; No Ruz & summer only)
Out-
side the Guri restaurant-teahouse, a row of seasonal tents are filled on a first-come, first-
served basis: there are no reservations. Bring mat and sleeping bag.
Hotel Maroof$$
( 442 5591; Jomhuri-ye Eslami St; s/d US$24/32)
Although slightly scrappy, this is the
cheapest option to have en suite toilets, some Western-style. It's better value than the
nearby Hotel Tahmasebi, despite road noise and underlit corridors.
HOTEL
Eating
TRADITIONAL IRANIAN
Sofrakhane Sonati Darvish$
( 226 8581; Laleh 6th Alley, off Shohoda St; meals US$4-6; 11am-11pm)
In a
300-year-old domed chamber hung with ships' wheels and lanterns, the Darvish is by far
Gorgan's most intriguing restaurant…if you can find it. Menus are limited but the kababs
are superlatively succulent. Around 9pm most evenings there's live traditional Persian
music from owner-manager Ahmad Morshe, who speaks fluent Romanian plus a little
English.
Absha Restaurant$
( 222 2993; Imam Khomeini St; meals US$3-6; noon-4pm & 7.30-10pm)
The
smartest of many eateries around Shahrdari Sq for decent
polo-morgh
(chicken and rice)
and
ghorme sabzi
(green mix of diced meat, beans and vegetables, served with rice). An
unpretentious place next door serves ice cream and fresh-squeezed fruit juice.
For pizzerias, head down Valiasr St. Continue all the way to Nahar Khoran for outdoor
teahouses, some nicer restaurants and the eccentric
Guri
( 552 4891; Valiasr St km6;
kababs US$1; 4pm-1am)
, the main building of which is shaped like a giant samovar
topped by a big concrete teapot.
TRADITIONAL IRANIAN
