Southeastern Iran - Iran - page 451

Stretching for 1200m from Tohid Sq northeast to Shohada Sq, Kerman's Bazar-e Sartas-
ari (End-to-End Bazaar) is one of the oldest trading centres in Iran. This main thorough-
fare is made up of four smaller bazaars, and a further 20 or so branch off to the north and
south. It is, however, easy enough to navigate and has a vivacity that should keep you in-
terested, especially in the morning and late afternoon.
Starting at Tohid Sq, the first section is the Bazar-e Ganj AliKhan , built in the 17th
century for local governor Ganj Ali Khan, which soon opens around the pretty Ganj Ali
Khan Square . This courtyard is home to what was once Kerman's most important
hammam , the Hamam-e Ganj Ali Khan ( 222 5577; Ganj Ali Khan Sq; admission
US$0.50; 9am-6pm) , now restored and transformed into a museum. Wonderful fres-
coes adorn the walls and wax dummies illustrate the workings of a traditional bathhouse.
The reception area, for example, was divided so men practising different trades could all
disrobe together. At the east and west ends of the hammam, look for the 'time stones',
translucent, 10cm-thick alabaster doorways through which bathers could get a rough idea
of the time according to how light it was outside.
On the north side of the courtyard is the photogenic Bazar-e Mesgari Shomali (Cop-
persmith's Bazaar), and at the square's northeastern end is Masjed-e Ganj Ali Khan (ad-
mission free; 9am-6pm Tue-Sun) , Ganj Ali Khan's lavishly decorated private mosque.
Next door Golshan Caravanserai ( 9am-6pm) has recently been restored and is now
home to a bunch of antique-cum-bric-a-brac stores and the Kerman Tour Guides Associ-
ation ( Click here ) .
From the northeastern corner of the square, the Bazar-e Zargaran (Gold Bazaar) leads
to a small square with an attractive portal into an old (and now closed) madraseh (school).
Follow the steps down to the Hamam-e Ebrahim Khan , which was being restored when
we passed but, when complete, should be open for men to be rubbed, scrubbed and
beaten.
From Ganj Ali Khan Sq the main bazaar continues east as Bazar-e Ekhtiari and passes
the Hamam-e Vakil Chaykhaneh ( Click here ) before becoming the Bazar-e Vakil ; both
are about 150 years old. After about 600m the covered bazaar ends and the 700-year-old
open-air Bazar-e Mosaffari begins with vendors selling fruit and (when we visited) socks
from tables and crowded storefronts. The Masjed-e Jameh (Jameh Mosque) can be entered
from this bazaar, and you can then walk through to Shohada Sq.

MOSQUE

Masjed-e Jamehعماح دجسم
(Jameh Mosque; off Shohada Sq) The Masjed-e Jameh is entered from both Shohada Sq
and the bazaar. Well preserved, its four lofty iwans (rectangular halls opening onto a
courtyard) and shimmering blue tiles date from 1349 but were extensively modernised