Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Bavanatتاناوب
In a quiet valley 230km northeast of Shiraz, the Bavanat region is a 20km-long walnut
forest in a lush valley between the Zagros Mountains in the south and deserts to the north.
The main town is Suryan, aka Bavanat, but the real destination here is the village of Shah
Hamzeh Bazm (or just Bazm) 18km further east. The mountains near Bazm are home to
Khamseh nomads, a confederation of five groups of Arabic, Turkish and Farsi-speaking
people. From about April until October they pitch their tents in the hills and survive with
few of the 'luxuries' you might see in the tents of Qashqa'i nomads north of Shiraz.
Abbas Barzegar, himself part Khamseh, opens his family home in Bazm to visitors and
runs one- and two-day Bavanat Tours ( 0752-326 2357, 0917 317 3597;
www.bavanattravel.com , in Farsi) to stay with the nomads (in summer, of course). He's a
lovely guy, though his very basic English is a problem for non-Farsi speakers. Alternat-
ively, you could just hang out in his place (price negotiable). Tours cost US$50 per person
including a one-day tour, a night's accommodation and three meals.
From Yazd, there is a bus to Bazm at noon every day except Friday (US$2.70, four
hours). From Shiraz (US$2.70, three hours), buses leave Karandish terminal at 7pm and
8pm daily.
Firuz Abadدابآ زوریف
0712 / POP 70,000 / ELEV 1330M
The monumental Sassanian-era sites around modern Firuz Abad are the remains of struc-
tures originally built by the founder of the Sassanian empire, Ardashir Babakan, in the 3rd
century BC. Firuz Abad was once an important stop on the Sassanid roadway between
Shiraz and the ancient port of Shiraf. Today it's mainly a Qashqai'i farming town. Coming
from Shiraz, the first site is Qal'eh-e Doktar (admission free; sunrise- sunset) , a
three-tiered palace sitting atop a steep hill. You'll know you're there when you see a foot-
bridge crossing the road. Take the bridge and it's a 20-minute climb. Made of rock and
gypsum, this palace was Ardashir's first, and its position and fortification reflect the
lingering Parthian threat of the time. While crumbling, it's not difficult to imagine the
palace's original layout, and the views from the top are magnificent.
A 20-minute drive away, Ardashir's Palace (admission US$0.30; 7.30am-sunset) is
a much grander structure built beside a spring once Ardashir felt more secure. Given it is
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