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tours in equal measure (often together). Some rooms have bathrooms with Western toilets,
others with the squat variety - all are a bit too expensive for what's on offer. There's inter-
net access (US$1.40 per hour) but no wi-fi.
Pars International Hotel$$$
( 233 2255; www.pars-international-hotel.com ; Zand Blvd; s/d/ste US$98/158/233;
) The owners of this four-star business hotel are politically conservative, so
don't expect foreign stations on the TV or any relaxation of dress codes. Rooms are char-
acterless but well equipped, and there are four restaurants, including the Acacia African
Restaurant. Wi-fi and internet cost US$2 per hour.
HOTEL
Vila Hotel$
( 234 5645; essiano@gmail.com; Zand Blvd; s/d US$25/30, without bathroom US$20/
25; ) Located on noisy Zand Blvd over the popular Haji Baba Restaurant, this place is
only worth considering because of its prices, which are extremely reasonable. Most rooms
have kitchenettes, hard beds, satellite TV and a small bathroom with squat toilet; a few
cheaper versions are without kitchenette and share a bathroom - all could be cleaner.
Request a room at the rear, as the front ones are noisy.
HOTEL
Eating
Shiraz is noted as a culinary capital but in recent years Shirazis have embraced Western-
style fast food with an almost embarrassing relish. Sadly the world-famous Shiraz (Syrah)
grape is no longer made into the wine that inspired Hafez to poetry.
The city's best fast food can be found in the places along Chamran Blvd in the upmar-
ket suburbs northwest of the city centre and on nearby Sattar Khan Blvd.
TRADITIONAL IRANIAN
Shater Abbas 1$$
( 229 1440; Khakshenasi St, off Azadi Blvd; meals US$5.50-15.50; 11am-4pm &
6-11.30pm) The bustling open kitchen and hard-working waiters attest to the popularity of
this long-standing favourite. Enter from the street, descend the stairs into the basement
and claim one of the large tables clad in cheerful checked tablecloths - your reward will
be the best kababs in the city. Start with the hot bread and cheese, and be sure to order the
succulent shandiz lary kabab (spiced lamb) or the kubideh (minced lamb kabab), as both
are delicious. There are fish dishes for non-meat eaters.
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