Central Iran - Iran - page 385

( Mausoleum of King of the Light; Ahmadi Sq; variable, often 24hr) Sayyed Mir
Ahmad, one of Imam Reza's 17 brothers, was hunted down and killed by the caliphate on
this site in AD 835 and his remains are housed in this glittering shrine. A mausoleum was
first erected over the grave during the 12th century but most of what you see dates from
the late-Qajar period and the Islamic Republic.
The expansive courtyard is a great place to sit and take in the bulbous blue-tiled dome
and dazzling gold-topped minarets while discreetly observing the pious at what is one of
the holiest Shiite sites in Iran. In the shrine itself, countless minute mirror tiles reflect the
passion within.
In theory, non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the shrine. Enforcement seems to be
mixed, but if you are polite and in a small group you may be lucky. Women must enter
through a dedicated entrance and wear a chador; these can be hired from one of the old
women hanging around the entrance - US$0.50 is a fair fee. Cameras are forbidden.
A recently opened museum (admission US$0.30; variable) is housed in a new
building off the northwestern corner of the courtyard (next to the shrine itself) and houses
an interesting collection of shrine-related objects, including some highly prized old Qur-
ans upstairs and an absolutely exquisite door decorated with silver, gold and lapis lazuli
downstairs.
In the southeastern corner is the Bogh'e-ye Sayyed Mir Mohammad (Mausoleum of
Sayyed Mir Mohammad; variable, often 24hr) , which houses the tombs of two broth-
ers of Mir Ahmad. The shrine has the typical Shirazi bulbous dome, intricate mirror work
and four slender wooden pillars, leading some to describe it as more beautiful than Shah-e
Cheragh.

Madraseh-ye Khanناخ هسردم
(Dastqeib St; knock on the door) In 1615, Imam Gholi Khan, governor of Fars, foun-
ded this serene theological college for about 100 students. The original building has been
extensively damaged by earthquakes and only the impressive portal at its entrance has sur-
vived; look for the unusual muqarnas inside the outer arch and some intricate mosaic
tiling with much use of red. The college (still in use) has a fine stone-walled inner court-
yard and garden.
The building can be reached via a lane off Lotf Ali Khan Blvd. The doors are usually
closed but if you are lucky the caretaker will open it; a tip is appreciated. If you get in, ask
to be shown to the roof for panoramic views over the bazaar.

MADRASEH

Masjed-e Nasir-al-Molkکلملاریصن دجسم

MOSQUE