Central Iran - Iran - page 377

9am-5pm, to 7pm summer) in the centre of town. This dates from Sassannian times and
may well be the oldest existing mud-brick structure in Iran. Climb to the top for fantastic
views across Meybod's rooftops and into the desert.
There are also two sites of minor interest near each other in the west of town: a
300-year-old post house (admission US$0.90; 9-5pm Sat-Thu winter, till 7pm sum-
mer) and a huge caravanserai where a few locals operate handicraft shops. In front of the
caravanserai is a handsome ab anbar and opposite is a huge, conical-roofed Safavid- era
ice house (yakh dan) .
ZEIN-O-DINنيدلا نيز
Blink and you could miss Zein-o-din, where the sole structure and raison d'être is a
400-year-old caravanserai built on the orders of Shah Abbas I. Located two days' camel
ride south of Yazd (that's 60km) on the main road to Kerman, the caravanserai was part of
a network of 999 such hostels built to promote trade. Of those, it's one of only two circu-
lar caravanserais (the other, near Esfahan, is largely destroyed).
Thankfully, this one was built to last and today Caravanserai Zein-o-din ( 0912
371 4296; fax [phone]; per person incl breakfast & dinner US$70, per person
B&B US$55; ) gives a romantic taste of a caravan traders' life on the Silk Road. A
three-year renovation, during which 13,000 pumice stones were used to scour centuries of
grime from the walls, saw the simple accommodation restored to almost its original state:
the raised rooms offer mattresses on top of carpets with just a curtain separating their oc-
cupants from the corridor. Where it differs is in the stylish and clean communal bath-
rooms, the service and the peaceful surrounds (no noisy caravans these days, just the faint
sound of traffic on the highway). Advance booking is essential ; prices are US$10 cheaper
in winter.
The caravanserai's location away from any towns means that at night, the starry sky is
incredibly clear. Enthusiastic amateur astronomer Reza Tamehri conducts two-hour astro-
nomy sessions (per person depending on numbers US$25-35) on the caravanserai's roof.
The price includes transportation from Yazd and guided use of equipment; if you would
also like dinner there's an extra charge of US$16 per person. Bookings are essential and
should be made through Mohsen Hajisaeid ( 0913 351 4460;
www.iranpersiatour.com ) in Yazd. The skies are clearest in winter but it can be absolutely
freezing - take warm clothing.
SARYAZDدزيرس
Saryazd means 'head of Yazd' and its two recently restored caravanserais were the last
stop before Yazd on the famous trade route from the east. About 6km east of the highway,