Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Activities
If you are keen to take a camel trek,
Iranian Deserts
(1-hour/1-day/3-day trek US$14/55/
145)
is a highly regarded outfit run by Ali Saraban, a cameleer based in Mesr, one hour
north of Garmeh. Ali has 15 camels and takes guided treks through the dunes in autumn
and spring. He doesn't speak English, so it's best to arrange your booking through
Ateshooni.
Sleeping & Eating
GUESTHOUSE
Ateshooni$
( 443 2156, 0913 223 0874;
www.ateshooni.com
;
guesthouse per person US$35, hostel
per person US$10, apt rates by request; )
Artist and musician Maziar Ale Davoud has
almost single-handedly saved Garmeh from the fate meted out to many small desert com-
munities, restoring a number of its mud-brick buildings as homes for members of his fam-
ily and opening a guesthouse, backpacker hostel and 12-bed holiday apartment. In the pro-
cess he has provided employment for locals and brought much-needed income and infra-
structure to the village, which is now thriving rather than seeing most of its residents
forced to relocate to Yazd and Tehran. Wonderful home cooking is served at the guest-
house, and both the hostel and apartment offer kitchen facilities (breakfast is also provided
at the hostel). Sleeping and eating arrangements are traditional, but the shared bathrooms
have Western toilets and the decor of each place is quite charming. Each has evaporative
cooling.
When here, you can wander through the date palms, relax with a book or ask Maziar
and his team of local guides to organise camel treks, hikes to hot-water springs and moun-
tain villages or visits to moving sand dunes and a dry salt lake.
Ateshoni's popularity means you should book ahead, especially for weekends. You can
stay at any time of year, but be warned that during summer it gets ridiculously hot.
Getting There & Away
Getting to Garmeh isn't easy. If you are coming on a Wednesday night or Thursday after-
noon, Ateshooni may be able to organise a lift for you - check this in advance.
From Tehran, buses to Tabas or Birjand leave from Terminal-e Jonub between 10am
and 5pm and stop in Khoor (Khur), 28km to the north of Garmeh on the Na'in to Tabas
road, en route (VIP/
mahmooly
US$18/13.50, nine/10 hours). These leave almost hourly,
although only one service (at 3pm) is VIP.
