Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Dasht-e Kavir
'A great silence overcomes me, and I wonder why I ever thought to use language.'
The great Persian poet Rumi may never have been to the desert towns northeast of Esfa-
han, but this oft-repeated line could have been written specifically for them. The Dasht-e
Kavir, one of two deserts dominating the landscape of eastern Iran, is a mix of sand and
salt that is as blinding in its whiteness as the desert is deafening in its total, unimaginable
silence. Within these desolate environs exist oases, and among these oases are some sweet
spring villages.
Don't travel here in summer, as temperatures regularly reach 50°C and few places have
air-conditioning.
TOUDESHKکشدوت
0312 / POP 3240 (TOUDESHK), 700 (TOUDESHK CHO)
To experience a taste of village life, consider breaking your trip between Esfahan and
Yazd and visiting Toudeshk Cho, 95km from Esfahan. This classic desert village of mud-
brick buildings,
badgirs
and hospitable locals has been hosting foreign cyclists for years
and now has an excellent homestay open to all travellers. It's a short distance from the lar-
ger, more modern village of Toudeshk.
Tak-Taku Guesthouse
( 637 2586, 0913 365 4420; crazyboyindes-
ert@gmail.com; full board per person US$20; )
Owner English-speaking Mo-
hammad Jalali and his family are eager to offer guests a taste of the real Iran, and do so
with great charm and warmth. Their traditional house has rooms set around a courtyard
and guests eat and sleep the Iranian way (ie on the floor). Sister-in-law Fatima is a fab-
ulous cook, and the food you will eat here will probably be the best you sample in Iran.
The bargain-basement price includes three meals and an interesting walking tour around
the village. You can also enjoy a visit to the local
hammam
(Thursday and Friday only) or
a tour to the shifting sand dunes in the Varzaneh Desert or the nearby Gavkhuni wetlands;
Mohammad can organize camping in the sand dunes for those who are interested.
Buses from Esfahan leave from Jey terminal. There is an occasional Toudeshk service
(minibus, US$0.90, 1¼ hours) but most of the time you'll need to take the bus to Na'in
(minibus/
mahmooly
US$1.60/$1.80) and ask to get off at Toudeshk Cho.
There are four services daily to Yazd (VIP/
mahmooly
US$6.50/4.50, 3½ hours) via
Na'in (US$2.30/1.80), and one daily service to Garmeh (US$2.70).
