Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
TEAHOUSE
Abbasi Hotel Teahouse$
(Shahid Medani St; tea US$1.40-3.20, snacks US$1.80-2.50; 4-10pm)
The setting at
the rear of the hotel's courtyard is a delight, and while you might need to start singing to
get a waiter's attention after 6pm, when locals flock here to eat
ash-e reshte
(noodle soup
with beans and vegetables; US$4.50), it's well worth the effort. Snacks include halva (a
sweetmeat made of sesame seeds and honey), dates, warm beetroot and
fereni
(a sweet
pudding made from rice flour, sugar and rosewater). Order and pay at the cash register and
then give the docket to your waiter.
SWEETS
Fereni Hafez$
(Hafez St; bowl of fereni US$0.50; 8am-midnight)
You'll be in good company if you
make your way here for an afternoon or after-dinner snack - locals flock to this place to
get their regular fixes of
fereni
, with many taking containers of the sweet stuff home to
make the family happy. One mouthful, and you'll immediately realise why. Look for the
'Icecream Hafez' sign and the people eating on the street.
Restaurant Shahrzad$$
( 220 4490; Abbas Abad St; meals US$7.50-16.50; 11.30am-10.30pm)
Opulent
Qajar-style wall paintings, stained-glass windows and battalions of black-suited waiters
contribute to the Shahrzad's reputation as the best restaurant in Esfahan. House specialit-
ies include the lamb cutlets, the
khoresht-e mast
and the
chelo fesenjun
. At the end of the
meal you'll be offered a complimentary piece of
gaz
flavoured with almond and rosewa-
ter.
TRADITIONAL IRANIAN
Bastani Traditional Restaurant$$
(Chaharsogh Maghsod Bazar, Naqsh-e Jahan Sq; meals US$3.50-14; 11.30am-10pm)
Esfahan's most atmospheric restaurant is located in the shadow of the Masjed-e Shah. Re-
cently rebuilt and restored, its interior features an internal courtyard with fountain, tiled
walls and painted vaulted ceilings with mirror inlay - truly gorgeous. Though a favourite
with tour groups (not usually a good sign), the food is pretty good, with dishes such as
khoresh-e beh
(stewed lamb and quince) and
khoresh-e alu
(stewed chicken and plum)
making seasonal appearances. When we last visited, work was underway to open a roof
terrace with views over the mosque's roof and minaret. There's a cover charge of US$1.60
if you only order some tea.
TRADITIONAL IRANIAN
