Central Iran - Iran - page 306

fice). What you see is an ornately decorated courtyard, laid out around an empty central
fountain pool. At its far end is a two-storey iwan (open reception hall opening onto the
courtyard) that is sumptuously decorated with splendid motifs above the entrance, intric-
ate muqarnas (stalactite-type stone carving used to decorate doorways and window re-
cesses), fine glass and mirror work, and frescoes painted by Kamal al-Molk, the foremost
Iranian artist of the time. In one of the smaller adjoining rooms, a carpet design is carved
on the ceiling.
If you ask nicely you might be allowed to climb to the roof for views over the courtyard
and the distinctive six-sided, domed badgirs .
To get here, follow the signs from Alavi St up a small incline opposite the Khan-e
Ameriha.
Khan-e Ameriha اهیرماعهناخ
(Alavi St; admission US$0.65; 9am-6pm) The largest and most impressive of the
town's mansions, this complex was built at the end of the 18th century by Ebrahim Khalil
Ameri, Kashan's governor and one of the country's wealthiest men. Ameri had made his
money supplying the shah with arms and providing security along the trade route between
Tehran and Kerman. When completed, his was the largest home in Persia, encompassing
four mansions for different family members linked by seven courtyards over 9000 sq
metres.
All of the buildings were fast returning to dust by the time restoration work began in
1999. So far, millions of euros have been spent and one by one the courtyards and sur-
rounding buildings are being returned to their extravagant best (expect to see lots of scaf-
folding). Highlights include the mirrored reception rooms, two hammams (one of which
was built specifically for local pregnant women) and the naghb (mask room), which leads
to a secret escape tunnel. To see it, get chummy with the attendants…and ask to be let
onto the roof.
Parts of the house will open as a top-end traditional hotel in the next few years.
Khan-e Abbasian نایسابعهناخ
(Alavi St; admission US$1.80; 8am-sunset) Built by a fabulously wealthy glass mer-
chant, this handsome complex of six buildings is spread over several levels. The numer-
ous courtyards are designed to enhance the sense of space by becoming larger as they step
up, culminating in an open courtyard on top. The high porticos and reception halls are
decorated with the usual plaster reliefs and fine mirror work but also feature exceptionally