Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
has been the centre of trade in Kashan for almost 800 years. If you step off the main thor-
oughfare, you'll discover caravanserais, madrasehs, mosques and hammams (public bath-
houses).
When exploring, be sure to make your way to the magnificent Khan Amin al-Dowleh
Timche , a caravanserai with a soaring, beautifully decorated dome. Dating from 1868, it's
currently being restored by the Kashani Culture & Heritage Office. There's a tea stand at
one of its entrances where you can sit and watch a steady stream of shoppers pass by. Al-
ternatively, the 19th-century Hammam-e Khan ( Click here ) is a popular spot for a tea and
qalyan (water pipe) in the late afternoon. Other notable features in the bazaar include the
Seljuk-era Masjed-e Soltani (Soltani Mosque), located on the main thoroughfare (known
as 'The Main Line'), and the 800-year-old Mir Amad Mosque , located on a thoroughfare
known as 'The Copper Line'. The latter is also where the most interesting shops are loc-
ated.
For a delicious snack, purchase some Kashani biscuits from one of the bazaar's many
patisseries - the nargili (coconut macaroons) are particularly delicious.
WHO'S THAT KNOCKING AT MY DOOR?
As you wander around the narrow streets of Kashan, look carefully at the house doors. Most have two knockers: one
round and fat, the other long and thin. These were designed to give off different sounds so that those in the house
would be able to tell whether a man or woman was knocking and then decide who should go to the door - vital in a
society where women lived in purdah (in seclusion or behind a veil). The round and fat knockers signalled a female
guest, the long and thin a male.
MOSQUE COMPLEX
Masjed-e Agha Borzogگرزب اقآ هسردم و دجسم
(Agha Bozorg Mosque & Madraseh; 8am-8pm) This 19th-century mosque complex is
famous for its symmetrical design. It comprises four storeys, including a large sunken
courtyard with ablutions pool, an austere dome, tiled minarets and unusually lofty badgirs
(windtowers). The wooden front door is said to have as many studs as there are verses in
the Quran, and the mud-brick walls are covered with Quranic inscriptions and mosaics.
Inside, there's a fine portal and mihrab (niche indicating the direction of Mecca) on the
right at the rear of the compound. The madraseh in the sunken courtyard is still in use
(women should steer clear), though the mosque itself has been decommissioned. Entrance
 
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