Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Sassanian king Shahpur I was so proud of his victory over the Romans that he recorded the event with boastful
carved reliefs at Naqsh-e Rostam (
Click here
) and Bishapur (
Click here
). Stories vary as to Valerian's fate, but
Shushtaris insist that he was imprisoned in Qal'eh Salosel (
Click here
). In some versions he was systematically in-
sulted then brutally killed by being forced-fed a 'soup' of molten gold.
In an alley behind the Shandravan Bridge, the delightful little
Mostofi House
(admis-
sion free; 8am-2pm)
hosts a small
tourist information office
( 622 0850;
www.shushtarchtb.ir
)
where you can get useful brochures and maps. While here peruse a
small museum in their
shabestun
(a below-ground sitting room typical of traditional
Khuzestani houses) and enjoy river views from the palm-tree courtyard.
Sights
ARCHITECTURE
Watermills
(Abshari Sika; Shari'ati St; admission US$1; 8am-10pm)
. Shushtar's
raison d'être
for
millennia was controlling the irrigation of the Khuzestan plains, and the town's most fam-
ous attraction is a set of ancient watermills. Actually, these aren't buildings at all but a
powerful arc of cascading water chutes that are strangely mesmerising, especially when
floodlit at night. They're especially impressive considering that the water is fed through
ancient man-made feeder tunnels. One mill has been reconstructed so you can observe an
old paddle-wheel device turning a millstone. Entrance is down steps beside an attractive
blue-facaded building now home to souvenir and pickle shops. You can see the watermills
site almost as well by simply peering over the parapet of the Shari'ati St bridge (one block
south of 17 Shahrivar Sq), or even better by climbing the hill behind: follow signs to the
attractively renovated
Marashi House
( 622 3484; Abdullah Banu St; admission free;
8am-9pm, variable)
.
Pol-e Shandravanناوردناش لپ
About 400m west of the bus terminal are substantial ruined sections of this partly Sassan-
id
bridge
cum weir, also known as Band-i Qaisar or Valerian's Bridge. Along with the
Band-e-Mizan
weir, this raised the river level by 2m, providing the waters necessary for
irrigation and mills. Considered a wonder of the world by 7th-century invading Arabs, the
workers and architects were Roman captives (see boxed text,
Click here
)
. The bridge ori-
ginally had 45 arches and remained intact, albeit with many a renovation, until around a
century ago. According to some Khuzestani historians, it was then deliberately dynamited
ARCHITECTURE
