Western Iran - Iran - page 284

(Aramgah-e Danyal) As in a typical imamzadeh , Muslim pilgrims crowd the glittery in-
terior of the Tomb of Daniel , kissing the zarih grate around a green-draped grave slab.
Here this behaviour is particularly intriguing given that Daniel has at best tangential relev-
ance to Islam. In fact, he's a semi-mythical Jewish figure who supposedly served as a
faithful satarap (administrator) to Darius I (r 522-486 BC). Dubiously recorded in the
Bible as having 'tender love with the prince of the eunuchs' (Daniel 1, 9) he is best re-
membered for unenviable ordeals in lions' dens. These exploits were already over 300
years old when recorded in the Old Testament (Daniel 6, 16-23).
Whatever the real provenance of the Daniel relics, they brought Shush an extremely
lucrative flow of Jewish pilgrims from across the Middle East. Great wealth accrued to the
townsfolk living nearby, but those living across the river were missing out on the bonanza
and wanted a share of the pilgrims' shekels. A compromise was arranged whereby
Daniel's bones would spend alternate years on either riverbank, bringing prosperity to
both communities. In the 12th century, travellers reported that an even more fanciful ar-
rangement had left the holy remains dangling in a crystal coffin suspended from a metal
bridge across the middle of the river.
What happened to them during the Mongol destruction is not recorded, but the present
structure with its distinctive, pine-cone faceted spire, so typical of Khuzestan tombs, was
only built in 1871.
The tomb complex is easy to find in the bazaar area, two blocks from the museum. It
remains open late into the evening.

Sleeping & Eating

Apadana Hotel$
( /fax [phone]; s/tw US$22/33; ) Comfortable and central above a good restaur-
ant, the Apadana's rooms are fully equipped, though the wallpaper is starting to look a
little tatty and water pressure can be rather low in the upper rooms. Staff are friendly and
some speak English.

HOTEL

HOTEL

Hotel Nazr$
( 522 9611; Haft-e Tir Sq; tw/q US$25/30; ) Rooms have good bathrooms and are
newer than the Apadana's, but the place lacks any atmosphere and is about 1km further
from the historical sites. From the minibus yards, walk 300m up Shari'ati St. Prices are
hazily defined so it's worth bargaining.
Plenty of snack bars and kababis are scattered near the museum and Haft-e Tir Sq.