Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
TRADITIONAL IRANIAN
Chelokababi Tavakol$
( 722 7184; Modarres St; meals US$2-4) This would be the backpacker meeting place,
if there were any backpackers. Excellent-value Iranian food is served in an atmospheric
once-grand old hammam that's slightly gone-to-seed. Charming owner Ali Rahban looks
somewhat like Dudley Moore, speaks good English and can rustle up eggplant delights for
vegetarians. Head downstairs through white-framed doors with coloured-glass panels.
Eram Restaurant$
( 727 8506; Bahmany Bldg, Shahid Ashrafi St; meals US$3-5) Beneath the same fake
1920's-style tower building as Borj Pizza, Eram's staff are as eccentric as its wavy brick-
work interior, which culminates in green-bronze framed copies of the Bisotun reliefs. It
serves mainly kababs, but does fesenjun (chicken cooked in a pomegranate and walnut
sauce) at lunchtime.
TRADITIONAL IRANIAN
Homa$$
( 723 4246; Kashani/Dabir Azam Sts; meals US$4-7) Combining the atmosphere of a
teahouse with the calm elegance of an upmarket restaurant, Homa has embroidered table-
cloths and blue-brick dining niches ranged around a gently trickling fountain. Though not
a patch on homemade equivalents, the semi-sweet fesenjun (US$4) is ideally complemen-
ted by their acidic dugh (churned sour milk or yoghurt mixed with water).
TRADITIONAL IRANIAN
Jamshid Restaurant$$$
( 424 4185; basement, Jamshid Hotel; meals $5-10; noon-3pm & 8-9.30pm, longer
in summer) Surveyed by a gigantic bronze eagle and huge samovar, this unusual dining
room is divided by an artificial 'stream'. Try the local speciality khoresht khalol (lamb
stewed with almonds) rather than the three-skewer dandeh kabab (US$7), which is fam-
ous more for its huge size than for its flavour.
TRADITIONAL IRANIAN
Information
Internet Access
Hesabgarnet ( 723 1309; Shari'ati St; per hr US$1; 10am-9pm)
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