Western Iran - Iran - page 262

Tucked into a towering cliff are inscribed some extraordinary Sassanian bas reliefs, set in
and around a pair of carved alcoves. Originally the site of an earlier Parthian royal hunting
garden, the Sassanians added their own regal stamp. The biggest alcove features elephant-
backed hunting scenes on the side walls and highlights the coronation of Khosrow II (r
AD 590-628) beneath which the king rides off in full armour and chain mail resembling
the Black Prince (albeit half a millennium before European knights had 'invented' such
armour). The second niche shows kings Shapur III and his Roman-stomping grandfather
Shapur II. To the right of the niches is a fine tableau again showing Shah Shapur II (r AD
379-383) trampling over the defeated Roman Emperor Julian the Apostate (who he'd
beaten in AD 363). Shapur II receives a crown of blessing from Zoroastrian god Mithras.
Surrounding open-air restaurants remain popular late into the evening. Even after the
reliefs-complex closes, sympathetic lighting means that a golden glow emanates warmly
from the alcoves, making the reliefs attractively half-visible through trees across a boating
pond.

Takieh Mo'aven ol-Molk
(Hadad Abil St; admission US$1; 10am-noon & 4-7.30pm Sat-Thu) Distinctively
Shiite, Hosseiniehs are shrines where plays are acted out during the Islamic month of Mo-
harram, commemorating the martyrdom of Imam Hossein at Karbala (AD 680). The finest
of these theatres cum religious buildings, is the Takieh Mo'aven ol-Molk.
Enter down stairs, through a courtyard and domed central chamber decorated with
grizzly scenes from the Karbala battle. The shrine remains very much active, with pil-
grims kissing the doors and being genuinely moved by the footprint of Ali on the wall of
the second courtyard. This is set amid tiles depicting a wacky gamut of images from Qur-
anic scenes, to pre-Islamic motifs including Shahnameh kings, European villages and loc-
al notables in 19th-century costumes. A lovely building to the right is now an Ethno-
graphic Museum displaying regional costumes.

HOSSEINIEH, SHRINE

Takieh Biglar Begi
( 827 6597; admission free; 8am-7pm Sat-Thu) The lesser known Takieh Biglar
Begi houses a fairly cursory calligraphy museum, but is worth visiting for its dazzling
mirror-tiled central dome-room. To find it take the lane opposite the fine Masjed-e Jameh
(Jameh Mosque; Modarres St) , which has a beautiful Yazd-styled twin minaret. Then take
the first alley left.
Shapur Ataee ( 0918-856 6220; shapura [e-mail]; per day plus tips US$25)
is an extremely learned and interesting guide with good English and decent French.

HOSSEINIEH, MUSEUM