Western Iran - Iran - page 256

Howramanناماروه
ELEV 1536M
Caught at the intersection of powerful empires, the Kurds had their homes destroyed so
regularly in medieval history that, by the 18th century, a sizable part of society had fore-
gone villages altogether and resorted to nomadism and brigandry. An important exception,
thanks to its impenetrable mountain-hemmed position, was the Howraman (Orumanat) val-
ley. This remains one of Iran's least known and most spectacular areas. In colder months
you'll still see Howraman men wearing kolobal, brown-felt jackets with distinctive
shoulder 'horns'. There is plenty of age-old stone terracing and the villages are stacked
Masuleh-style, one house's roof forming the next one's yard.
The Hurami Kurdish language is quite distinct from Sorani Kurdish, which replaced it in
Sanandaj, though Hurami was once the dialect of choice for regional Kurdish poets. Know-
ing even a few words will flabbergast and delight locals you meet. Fere-washa and zarif
mean beautiful, wazhmaze means delicious, deset wazhbu (literally 'hand good') means
thank you to which one replies sarat wazhbu ('head good' ie you're welcome).
From Biyakara , 17km east of Marivan, an asphalted road leads up through a narrow
canyon, transits the extensive village of Dezli , and climbs a high pass where it divides. Two
roads from here lead to Paveh, both breathtakingly beautiful. What appears to be the smal-
ler branch wiggles along the Iraqi border at Dalani (don't take photos there), bypasses
Nodesheh and continues via Nosud . This is now asphalted and is so much easier than the
alternative, but classic, route via picturesque Kamala (basic kabab shops) and austere
Howraman-at-Takht (Oruman-Takht) where the asphalt ends. Howraman-at-Takht is a
particularly impressive and steep array of rock-and-mud bungalows viewed most photogen-
ically from the diminutive Pir Shaliar shrine , 600m beyond. Although there's now a
green-domed Muslim prayer-room here, that shrine's real interest lies in the animistic rocks
and trees, behind, which are draped with votive rag-strips Buddhist-style. A Mithraic mid-
winter festival is reportedly still held here on the Friday nearest to 4 February. Some sug-
gest that this is a cultural relic from preZoroastrian 'angel' worship, albeit with an Islamic
overlay.
The slippery mud road from Howraman-at-Takht to Paveh (72km, 4½ hours) is 90%
hairpins: marvellously scenic but spine- jarringly exhausting, and impossible if wet or
snowy (ie most of the winter). The most appealing villages en-route are Belbär , cupped in
a deep mountain hollow, and Selin where brightly attired women sit at the roadside
crocheting classic Howraman slippers (giveh) . The best views are around Hawasawa (vis-