Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE KURDS
Just as many Westerners have the misguided impression that Iran is somehow 'dangerous', so Iranians are similarly
misinformed about Kurdish areas of their own country. In fact Kurdish hospitality often trumps even that of main-
stream Persians.
Kurds comprise nearly 10% of Iran's population. But there are several different Kurdish sub-groups speaking lan-
guages that are almost mutually unintelligible. Kurds around Howraman and Paveh are the most traditional and
speak poetic Hurami. Those in Sanandaj usually speak Sorani. Both groups are typically Sunni. However, some
Kurds around Kermanshah are Shiite. Kermanji, the language of most Kurds in Turkey, isn't widely spoken, though
Kermanji satellite TV stations, some openly glorifying PKK leader Abdulla Öcalan, are starting to change this.
Curiously there are pockets of native Kermanji speakers around Kalat in northeastern Iran. They were originally
sent there by the Safavids to defend Iran's 17th-century borders, and never left.
There are variations between tribes, but a common element in traditional dress for most Iranian Kurdish men is
the slightly tasselled headscarf
(mezare)
and the distinctive
kawa pantol
suit with heavily pleated baggy trousers.
These are typically belted by a wide cummerbund
(biben)
which, when dancing, men pull off and whirl above their
heads. Women wear colourful long dresses over baggy trousers and rarely resort to chador. At celebrations the real
finery comes out, notably caps covered in gold coins over cascading stitched tulle scarves.
