Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
feathers. Tea (US$0.50) comes with dates and a swizzle-stick of crystal sugar. At night it's
popular with (male) university students. Look for the black door with brass knobs and
knockers.
Haji Dadash$
( 322 2020; bazaar; meals US$1-5; 10am-11pm)
This family-oriented tea-cavern
overflows with character, especially in its carpet-draped front cellar. The good
dizi sangi
(peasants' stew of lamb, chickpeas and potato) comes with a plate of fresh herbs to fine-
tune the flavour but tea and qalyan for four costs a hefty US$6. Enter opposite the portal
of Mirza Mehdi mosque within the main bazaar.
TEAHOUSE
Karavansara Sangi$
( 326 1266; Beheshti St; meals US$2.50-5; 11am-4pm & 6-11pm)
Atmospheric if a
little over-lit, this 400-year-old stone building is an L-shaped remnant of a caravanserai
with 10 carpet-decked vaulted alcoves facing a long row of tables. Try the
kashki bade-
mjun
(eggplant paste, US$1.50).
TRADITIONAL IRANIAN
Eloğlu Teahouse$
(Ferdosi St; tea US$0.50, qalyan US$1; 8am-9.30pm)
Yet another appealing subter-
ranean teahouse; the Eloğlu is in a modern basement beautified with Rajasthani textiles.
TEAHOUSE
Information
Export Development Bank
(Ferdosi St; 9am-noon)
exchanges money.
Rayanet
(Sa'di St; per hr US$1; 8am-midnight)
has excellent internet connection and friendly
staff. Farsi-only city maps are sometimes sold from bookshops opposite the
telephone of-
fice
(Sa'di St; 7am-10.30pm)
and are available free from room 25,
Miras Ferhangi
(
323 9007; miras_zanjan@hotmail.com; Khayyam St; 8am-2pm)
.
Getting There & Away
Buses to Esfahan (US$6, 6.30pm), Rasht (US$3, 8.30am) and Tehran (fairly frequent) use
the big but eerily empty terminal, five minutes' walk south of Shilat Sq.
Savaris and some buses for Tehran, Qazvin and Tabriz pick up at the Behesti
(Khayyam)/Ferdosi St junction. If arriving on a Tehran-Tabriz bus that's bypassing Zan-
