Western Iran - Iran - page 238

thorn shrubs and fields of yellow iris. If you follow the 4WD track instead of the walking
path, take the right-hand fork an hour beyond the pass.
Wonderfully picturesque Maran is the last village en route with no semblance of a
road. Walking there from Salajambar takes three hours and requires fording a stream
twice. While not that hard, it's potentially dangerous when the water's high: slip and
you'll be washed over a waterfall to certain doom.
Another three hours' downhill hike from Maran brings you to an un-asphalted road be-
low pretty Yuj village set in flower-filled meadows.
Sleeping
Homestays make Garmarud a great base for shorter hikes - ask at Mr Sardeghi's tiny
Grocery Shop ( 379 4008, 0912-682 8991) ; he can also help you arrange qotr (mules)
to carry your bags.
At Pichebon, grassy meadows are great for camping - ask permission in the village.
In Maran village, Nematullah Mansukia ( 0912-282 140; r per person US$10,
meals around US$4) can provide a simple homestay with great home-cooked meals. By
pre-arrangement he can also organise mules from Yuj (around US$12) or even Garmarud
(around US$30). The village has a tiny, super-rustic hammam .
Getting There & Away
To reach Garmarud, a dar baste (closed door) savari costs US$10 from Qazvin or US$5
from Mo'allem Kelayeh. From the end of the hike in Yuj, a savari to Tonekabon sup-
posedly departs at 8am (US$2, two hours). Otherwise get someone to phone the savari
driver Shabani ( 0911-394 836) from Yuj's village telephone. Hopefully he'll arrive to
pick you up within a few hours. Yuj has an informal baker but no shops so keep some
snacks in reserve for the wait.
Soltaniyehهیناطلس
0242 / POP 8700 / ELEV 1787M
Little Soltaniyeh ('Town of the Sultans') was purpose-built by the Ilkhanid Mongols as
their Persian capital from 1302. But less than a century later in 1384 it was largely des-
troyed by Tamerlane. Fortunately three fine monuments survived.