Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
outer-wall remnants that drop vertically into the valley below. Allow at least an hour to
seek out the various degraded fortifications, enjoy the birdsong and meet the lizards.
Bring a hat and sunscreen as there's minimal shade.
There's no formal accommodation in Razmiyan. A taxi to Mo'allem Kalayeh costs
US$12, or US$15 if you tack on an 8km detour to Evan Lake en route. With its powerful
mountain backdrop, the tiny lake would be stunningly beautiful if it weren't for nearby
power lines and muddy car-washing spots.
MO'ALLEM KALAYEH & ANDEJجدنا & هياك ملعم
0282 / POP 4700 / ELEV 1817M
Sometimes called Alamut town, Mo'allem Kalayeh is the Alamut Valley's one-street dis-
trict centre. It's a useful transport staging post for the region but not a sight in itself. If you
get stuck here, Haddodi Restaurant ( 321 6362; 2-/6-bed r US$11/16) rents two very
simple rooms. It's on the main street 50m east of the eagle statue. The town centre, where
rare buses and savaris loiter, is 600m further east. Savaris to Qazvin (US$5) are an hour
quicker than the dreadfully slow bus (US$1, daily except Friday) that departs once feeder
buses from outlying villages have arrived. For Gazor Khan taxi charters cost US$6, or
US$11 including a side trip to Andej en route. Or take the returning school bus around
11.45am.
The 8km road-spur to Andej (elev 1587m) passes beside three truly awesome red-rock
side-canyons, somewhat reminiscent of the Olgas (in central Australia). The turnoff is just
northwest of Shahrak , which has a prominent (but not Assassin-related) castle ruin.
GAZOR KHAN & ALAMUT CASTLE توملا هعلق و ناخرزاگ
0282 / ELEV 2062M
The region's greatest attraction is the fabled ruin of Alamut Castle (admission US$1;
dawn-dusk) , Hasan-e Sabbah's famous fortress site. The site is a dramatic crag rising ab-
ruptly above the pleasant, unpretentious little cherry-growing village of Gazor Khan. The
access path starts about 700m beyond the village square and requires a steep, sweaty
25-minute climb via an obvious stairway. On top, archaeological workings are shielded by
unsightly corrugated metal sheeting. But the phenomenal views from the ramparts are un-
missable.
Several tempting mountain hikes start in Gazor Khan or Khoshkchal village, a steep,
15-minute 4WD ride beyond. Route suggestions are extensively described in a helpful
travellers' tip book at the charming Hotel Koosaran ( 377 3377; dm US$6) in Gazor
Khan. That's effectively just the guest room in Ali Samie's family home. It can sleep up to
five, curled up on cotton mattresses on the floor. Simple but tasty meals are available
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