Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
cooked with finesse and packed with flavour, albeit in small portions. After dining retire
to the central tea-chamber. Manager Sheikhlovand speaks English. It's highly recommen-
ded.
Teahouse$
(Modarres St; breakfast US$1; 7am-3pm) This is an unnamed, all-male teahouse al-
most opposite the library that does fabulous curds-and-honeycomb breakfasts.
TEAHOUSE
Hajkhalim Chaykhaneh$
(Qunchi Meydan Alley; dizi US$1, tea US$0.10, qalyan from US$0.50; 6.30am-11pm)
Equally daunting for women, this place offers a very cheap, thoroughly 'real' local tea-
house experience. Expect stares.
Numerous confectionary shops facing the Safi-od-Din Mausoleum sell helva siyah
(black halva or 'pest'), a rich local speciality vaguely reminiscent of Christmas pudding. It
costs around US$4 per kilogram but a small plateful sprinkled with coconut, grated nuts
and cinnamon is plenty (US$0.20). Ardabil's famous honey is sold throughout the city.
TEAHOUSE
Information
Aryana Currency Exchange ( 223 8747; Sheikh Safi St; 9am-2pm & 4-8pm) It ex-
changes many currencies including Azerbaijani manats.
Coffeenet Mohsen (Imam Khomeini Sq; per hr US$1; 8am-midnight) Downstairs.
The best connection of five internet places within 50m.
Miras Ferhangi ( 225 2708; Khane Ershadeh St; 7.30am-2pm Sat-Thu) Excellent
free maps of Ardabil, Sara'eyn and the region from a charming little brick courtyard
house.
Getting There & Away
Flights to Tehran (US$40) leave three times daily with Iran Air ( 223 8600) and daily
with Iran Aseman. Helpful Homai Travel ( 223 3233; Sa'at-Noh Sq;
8.30am-7.30pm Sat-Thu, 9am-1pm Fri) sells air tickets and train tickets ex-Tabriz.
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