Western Iran - Iran - page 197

CROSSING THE ARMENIAN BORDER AT NORDUZ
On the Iran side, the Norduz customs yards occupy an otherwise unpopulated sweep of rural valley. Moneychangers
on the Iran side buy and sell Armenian dram (US$1 = 390 dram) as well as dollars and rials for around 5% below
bank rates. One or two taxis usually wait outside the Iranian border compound asking US$8 to Jolfa. From within
the compound you'd pay US$4 more.
Walking-distance away from customs on the Armenian side is Agarak village. Armenian 14-day tourist visas
(US$50) or three-day transit visas (US$40) are available at the border, but the application might take a while - an-
noying if you're on one of the through buses (Yerevan-Tehran via Tabriz). Hopefully, the bus driver will wait for
you. On the Armenian side Aries Travel ( 374-1-220138; www.bedandbreakfast.am ) coordinates pleasant
homestays in Meghri , a 15-minute, 4000-dram taxi ride away. From Hotel Meghri near central Meghri there's a
9am minibus to Yerevan (9000 dram, nine to 11 hours) and a 7.30am bus to Kapan (2000 dram, two hours).
NORDUZ TO KALEYBAR
Four kilometres east of Norduz, picturesque Duzal village rises on a hillock dominated by
a distinctive octagonal tomb tower and Imamzadeh (shrine or mausoleum to a descend-
ant of an imam). Behind the next rocky bluff the road passes through the gate towers and
sturdy mud-topped stone walls of the once huge Abu Mirza fortress (Kordasht Castle).
When viewed from the east, the walls frame an impressive spire of eroded rock on the Ar-
menian side. One kilometre further east is a large, lovingly renovated historic hammam
(Kordasht village; by request) with newly marbled floors and attractive ceiling pat-
terns. Two kilometres further east, at the end of Kordasht village, look west for a particu-
larly inspiring view of saw-toothed craggy ridges.
After another 25km, a side road rises steeply to the south beside a police post. This
leads to Ushtebin (Oshtabin, Oshtobeyin) village after 5km (the last 2km un-asphalted
and muddy when wet). Ushtebin has been touted by local tourist information offices as a
'new Masuleh', yet virtually no travellers have discovered it's charms. Despite a few is-
sues with rubbish collection, the hamlet is a very picturesque huddle of stone and mud
homes rising steeply in a fold of 'secret' valley famous for its white pomegranates.
The main road continues via the photogenically stepped village of Qarachilar (7km
from Ushtebin junction) to Eskanlu (88km) where you could cut inland through nomad
summer pastures to Kaleybar ( Click here ) .