Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
CROSSING THE AZERBAIJAN (NAKHCHIVAN)
BORDER AT JOLFA
Culfa, in Azerbaijan's disconnected Nakhchivan enclave, is a short walk across the Aras River from central Jolfa.
Use up your rials or exchange them for Azerbaijani Manats (AZN1=US$1.30) before leaving Iran. Note that in
Azerbaijan 'one Shirvan' confusingly means AZN2.
Beware that Culfa's paranoid police assume that all foreigners are spies. Jump quickly into a taxi (AZN6, 35
minutes) or minibus (AZN2) to Nakhchivan city, which is contrastingly relaxed and cosmopolitan. From Nakhchiv-
an city there are direct buses to İstanbul (AZN35 plus border bribes, five daily) taking around 30 hours via Iğdır
(AZN9).
The enclave is separated from the rest of Azerbaijan by aggressively closed Armenian borders. You'd have to fly
to reach Baku (US$120, six daily) or Gəncə (US$70, four weekly) but air tickets often sell out a week ahead.
Sleeping & Eating
HOTEL
Jolfa Tourist Inn$$
(Mehmansara Jahangardi; 302 4824; fax 302 4825; Eslam St; tw with/without bath-
room US$40/ 30)
Jolfa's smartest option is 1km from the centre. Walk a block south from
Ashura Sq then 10 minutes diagonally right at the T-junction, passing the train station en
route. Some English is spoken.
Hotel Durna$
( 302 3812; Vilaete-Fagih St; tw/tr/q with shared bathroom US$8/9/10)
Unsophistic-
ated but neat, well-kept and spotlessly clean rooms share decent squat toilets and hot
showers. Signed in Cyrillic, 400m east of Ashura Sq, it's a step up in quality from the
similarly priced Hotel Azerbaijan almost next door.
HOTEL
Yemekhana Hatäm$
( 302 2828; Ashura Sq; s/tw US$5/7, tw with shower US$8)
Survivable rooms are
available here at the back of a popular restaurant that serves up a splendid
zereshk polo ba
morgh
(chicken with rice and barberries) dinner for US$1.50, including soup and drink.
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