Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( 555 0505; Shari'ati St; pizzas US$1-5; noon-11pm) Ceilings soar to five-pointed
star lamps in this renovated older building. Pizzas are typically Iranian but the ash (thick
vegetable and noodle soup) is most hearty and excellent value (US$1).
Hornamandan$
(Place of Artists; 553 4594; Imam Khomeini St; meals US$1-5; 8am-10pm) Vaul-
ted underground eatery with an amusing if tacky 'sculpted' centrepiece water-feature and
a choice of tables or carpeted sitting platforms. Decent kababs and rich dizi (US$2).
TRADITIONAL IRANIAN
Modern Tabriz Restaurant$
(Imam Khomeini St; meals US$3-5; 11am-11pm) This good-value favourite serves
great kababs and excellent fried trout in a large, basement dining hall that somehow finds
a successful blend of olde-worlde charm, 1960s retro and idiosyncratic kitsch. Meal prices
include 'service', ie salad, soft drink and delicious barley-and-barberry soup.
TRADITIONAL IRANIAN
TEAHOUSE
Kahveteria Sonati Tarbiat$
(Tarbiat St; coffee US$1; 9am-9pm) Cosy, gently romantic brick-vaulted cafe for tea
and dates (US$1) served on porcelain featuring Qajar royalty. Women can smoke a qalyan
here without incurring the stares of 40 bemused grey-beards.
ABARESAN CROSSING & VALIASR AREA
En route to Valiasr or Elgoli you'll usually need to change shared taxi at Abaresan Cross-
ing, but there are several fairly nice little pizza parlours here of which Abdi ( 336
6245; 29 Bahman St; pizza US$3-4; 5-10.30pm) remains the most noteworthy, with
black decor and real flames over the doorway. Across the busy junction, Sadaf ( 334
5346; 29 Bahman St; meals US$3-6; noon-10pm) is an elegant family kabab restaurant
serving decent chelo morgh .
In Valiasr District, although there's the functional Al Mahdi teahouse (Amir Kabir St)
and the relatively upmarket Pars Restaurant ( 333 0048; Homam-Tabrizi St; kabab
meals US$4-6; noon-4pm & 6.30-10pm) the speciality here is pizza and people-watch-
ing from coffee shops around Karimkhan Sq.
Pizza Fanoos$
( 332 4700; Karimkhan Sq; pizzas US$3; 11am-midnight) Typically small but with
attractive framed glass-art and a good view-window upstairs.
FAST FOOD
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