Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Miyando'ab is a potentially useful overnight stop en route to Takht-e Soleiman (via Shah-
in Dezh, then Takab). The historic Mirza Rasoul Bridge sits at the southern city limits
and is visible if you arrive in town from Mahabad. The oldest mosque is Masjid Tag (al-
ley off Shahrivar St) . In the one-room museum ( 222 4917; Imam St Park; admission
US$0.50; 7.30am-3pm Sat-Thu, 9.30am-1pm Fri) , look for the ancient little fertility
goddess fondling her own breasts.
Nearby Hotel Berenjian ( 222 4975; fax 222 7870; Imam St; s/tw/tr US$25/35/45)
is well equipped and very central above a decent restaurant with English menus. Walk five
minutes left then around the corner to find the appealing teahouse Molana (Shohoda St;
qalyan US$0.50; 9am-8.30pm) and helpful internet cafe AsooNet (Shohoda St; per hr
US$0.50; 10am-10.30pm) .
Minibuses for Shahin Dezh (US$0.50, 1¼ hours), Mahabad (US$0.50, 35 minutes) and
Maraqeh (US$0.50, one hour) use the new terminal out in the northeastern city limits.
Savaris to Maraqeh (US$1) use a more central departure point beside the bright-green
'pincer' clock tower, 1km up Imam St from Hotel Berenjian. Shuttle taxis to the terminal
cost US$1 from that clock tower.
Tabrizزيربت
0411 / POP 1.46 MILLION / ELEV 1397M
A fascinating bazaar, a deeply human heart and passionately helpful freelance guides
make this gigantic, sprawling city a surprisingly positive introduction to Iran. It had a
spell as the Iranian capital and has proven extremely influential in the country's recent
history. Sometimes stiflingly smoggy and hot in summer, it can be freezing cold in winter,
but the Azari welcome is generally very warm any time of year. Don't miss an excursion
to Kandovan, Iran's 'Cappadocia'.
History
Biblical clues point to the Ajichay River flowing out of the Garden of Eden, which places
Tabriz at the gates of paradise! More historically verifiable, Tabriz was a Sassanian- peri-
od trade hub and came to eclipse Maraqeh as a later Mongol Ilkhanid capital of
Azerbaijan. It recovered remarkably rapidly from Tamerlane's 1392 ravages and, while
the rest of Iran was vassal to the Timurids, Tabriz became the capital of a local Turkmen
Qareh Koyunlu (Black Sheep) dynasty. That dynasty's greatest monarch was Jahan Shah
(no, not the Taj Mahal's Shah Jahan), under whose rule (1439-67) the city saw a remark-
able flowering of arts and architecture culminating in the fabulous Blue Mosque.
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