Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
SHAMS TABRIZI
If you find Khomeini-style Islam a little stony faced, don't be put off. Iran has produced other inspirational Muslim
thinkers. One such was dervish-philosopher Shams Tabrizi whose brief relationship (1244 to 1246) with Rumi was
arguably as significant to Sufi history as Jesus' encounter with John the Baptist was to Christianity. Bravely and of-
ten with humour Shams was keen to point out that religion is not an end in itself, merely the first step in a personal
journey of spiritual discovery. His
Khatesevom
is generally translated as
The Third Line
. But
The Third Path
might
be more accurate, echoing the middle way of the Buddha.
Around Maku
To conveniently visit Qareh Kalisa, the site of the battle of Chaldoran and also the village
of Bastam with some 2700-year-old steps and reconstructed ruins, consider chartering a
taxi from Maku then jumping out at Qareh Ziya'eddin for public transport to Khoy.
QAREH KALISAاسیلك هرق
Splendid outside, though plain within,
Qareh Kalisa
(Black Church; admission US$1;
24hr)
is the best maintained of all Iran's medieval churches. It's alternatively known as
Kalisa-ye Tadi (Church of St Thaddaeus) for St Thaddaeus (aka Tatavoos) who sup-
posedly founded a church here in AD 43. Some say he came with apostle St Bartholomew,
others that he
was
St Bartholomew. Whatever the case, Thaddaeus' preaching proved a
little too successful and the jealous Armenian king reacted by killing him and massacring
his 3000 converts in AD 66. In a curious twist, Armenia later became the world's first
Christian nation (AD 301). Thaddaeus' memory was revived with a chapel built here at
his supposed grave in AD 371.
Mostly rebuilt after an earthquake, the smaller black-and-white-striped chapel section
dates from 1319-29. The church was much restored and enlarged in 1810 when the main
beige-white stone section was added. This is richly carved with saints, angels, kings and
crosses, best observed from the chunky fortress-style walls that surround the church site.
Ring the bell to the left of the main door if it's locked. The only Christian services are
held during a brilliant three-day summer pilgrimage; dates vary and are announced shortly
beforehand through the
Armenian Prelacy Office
( 0411-555 3532;
archtab@itm.co.ir)
in Tabriz.
Qareh Kalisa is tucked behind a photogenically low-rise Kurdish village, 8km off the
quiet Shot-Chaldoran road. This road crosses rolling arid hills that turn into bright green
