Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
CROSSING THE TURKISH BORDER AT BAZARGAN
Travelling solo, crossing here usually takes under an hour. The hill-top immigration posts ( 24hr) are 2km
above Bazargan village, US$1 (plus US$1 for bags) by shared taxi/minibus. The posts are just 600m from Gürbu-
lak in Turkey (no facilities). The nearest Turkish-side accommodation is 40km east in Doğubayazıt, famous for its
1784 Işak Paşa palace.
Eastbound from Doğubayazıt to Gürbulak take a dolmuş (minibus; 3YTL, 25 minutes, last service 5pm) from the
junction of Ağrı and Sehiltik Sts, 100m east of the Karahan Petrol Ofisi station (where Ağrı dolmuşlar wait). That's
about five minutes' walk from Doğubayazıt's little bus terminal and cheap hotels. Westbound buses go from
Doğubayazıt.
Arriving in Iran during office hours you're likely to be welcomed by a charming Iranian tourist officer. The bank
within the Iran-side customs building offers full rial rates for US dollars and euros. They won't change UK pounds
nor Turkish lira for which you'll have to risk the scam-a-lot guys outside or, more safely, ask hoteliers in Bazargan
village. Beware that anywhere else in Iran, except Orumiyeh, Turkish lira are effectively worthless.
Well-connected Tabriz guide-fixer Hossein Ravaniyar ( www.iranoverland.com ; Click here ) is experienced at
sorting out motorists' border formality problems.
Makuوكام
0462 / POP 39,600 / ELEV 1293M
Boxed into a soaring rocky canyon, central Maku has a handful of minor sights and makes
a sensible base for visiting the old Armenian church of Qareh Kalisa ( Click here ) . Long a
key fortress guarding the Ottoman-Persian frontier, Maku was one of many Azerbaijani
khanates that gained semi- independence in the chaotic period following the death of
Nader Shah in 1749. Although rejoining Iran in 1829, the khanate was only finally abol-
ished a century later. Shops and all hotels are within 500m of little Chahara Sq on central
Imam St. The bus terminal is 3km southeast.
For internet, try Coffeenet Dade Pardazan (Imam St; per hr US$1; 10am-last cus-
tomer) , almost opposite the Makoo Tourist Inn, 400m west of the main square.
Sights
The sad, crumbling remnants of Old Maku's former citadel lead up to the Abu Fazl
Mosque and a series of degraded brick fortifications cupped beneath an impressively
huge cliff overhang. Fine views justify the sweaty 25-minute hike on steps and footpaths
directly north from Chahara Sq.
 
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