Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The first place you'll see as you head uphill is also the busiest, and that turnover might be
the reason it has some of the best food. Prices are also relatively reasonable.
AZARI
Khaneh Azarbaijan $$
The next one is more atmospheric, with a small cabin and outdoor tables with amazing
views. The
ash-e reshte
(US$2), and
dizi
(US$6) are fair value if you don't add too many
extras.
Ananda Vegetarian Restaurant & Coffee Shop$$
( 2255 6767; South Ekhtiyarieh St, off 10th Behestan St, off Pasdaran St; meals
US$10-18; noon-3.30pm & 6-11pm)
Up in north Tehran, the Ananda is a gem if
you're a vegetarian, and delightful even if you're not. It's run in association with the
Ira-
nian Society of Vegetarians
(
www.iranvegetarians.ir
)
, so you won't find any rogue meat
here. We can recommend the Ananda lasagne and Ananda calzone, the freshly made salad
(no plastic wrap!) and the service and setting. Come by taxi and ask for Pasdaran PTT
(post office) - it's just next door.
VEGETARIAN
Akbar Mashti Bastani$
(Shahid Bahonar Ave; 9am-midnight)
Akbar Mashti became famous for his ice cream
in the 1950s and today his son continues to sell what he modestly describes as 'the most
famous ice cream in Iran and the world'. Try the pistachio
bastani
(US$1.50) and you'll
probably agree. It's next to Bank Melli, about 150m east of Tajrish Sq.
ICE CREAM
Self-catering
Small grocery stores are easy to find in Tehran. Bigger supermarkets are becoming more
popular in northern Tehran, particularly around Tajrish Sq and along Valiasr Ave.
Drinking
Almost all Iranian
chaykhaneh
also serve food. In this chapter teahouses that are food des-
tinations in their own right are listed under Eating. Those listed here are more about the
tea, dates and qalyan experience.
Over the past decade Tehran has developed a vibrant cafe scene. Like teahouses, they
all serve food but most cafes are modern places serving relatively sophisticated Tehranis
who look for influences from Europe more than the Middle East. Which makes them fun
places to hang out and meet people.
