Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
GREATER TEHRAN
On balmy evenings in summer, Tehranis head for Darband and Darakeh, where the walk-
ing trails are lined with cafes and restaurants serving everything from full kabab meals to
generous helpings of
dizi, ash
(yoghurt and barley soup) or just snacks.
TEAHOUSE
Azari Traditional Teahouse$$
(Azari Coffeehouse;
Click here
;
5537 6702; Valiasr Ave, north of Rah-Ahan Sq; meals
US$4-10; 6am-midnight)
About 250m north of the train station, which is on Rah-Ahan
Sq, and on the west side of Valiasr, this restored 'coffeehouse' in south Tehran is wonder-
fully atmospheric because it remains popular with locals, who use it as an unofficial com-
munity centre. The
dizi
(US$6 all up) and
kashk-e bademjan
(eggplant fried and mashed
and served with thick whey and mint; US$3.50) are rightly popular. A traditional band
plays most evenings when the boisterous atmosphere is best enjoyed with a group, and
bookings are recommended.
Roka$$$
( 2275 3980;
www.roka-restaurant.com
;
Sarband Sq, Darband; meals US$20;
11am-11pm, meals at lunch & dinner)
Literally hanging from the cliff above Darband vil-
lage, Roka has a sort of James Bond feel to it, minus the martinis. The creation of Iranian-
British who once operated restaurants in London, it's accessed via the creaky elevator to
the Darband ski lift. Once there, you'll see a modern, glass and steel space with vistas
across the village, mountain and city and an outdoor deck from which to enjoy them. The
cuisine is Mexican and Italian and we found the fajitas (from US$12) and tacos (US$9)
enjoyable if not fantastic. The coffee was good and we'd happily come back for another
virgin mojito (US$3).
MEXICAN
Park-e Jamshidiyeh$$
(Feizieh Ave, Niyavaran St, Tajrish; all restaurants about 10am-midnight)
This popu-
lar in-town escape stretches ever-more-steeply up the mountainside at Tehran's northern
edge and is home to four 'ethnic' teahouses. The setting is stunning and the further you
climb the better the views of Tehran's skyline - it's great at dusk, but freezing cold for
much of the year. All restaurants serve Iranian food at tourist prices and are known for
(you guessed it) their kababs. For our money, the pick are (conveniently) the first two as
you head uphill.
IRANIAN
Markazi Jamshidiyeh Restaurant $$
IRANIAN
