Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Laleh International Hotel $$$
( 8896 5021; www.lalehhotel.com ; cnr Dr Hossein Fatemi Ave & Hejab St; s/d
US$145/180; ) The ex-InterContinental is the best choice among the fading
prerevolution luxury hotels because it is so well located north of Park-e Laleh. The 375
rooms and suites offer fine park or mountain views and while the decor and service are
both a bit tired, all up it's fair value.
LUXURY HOTEL
Eating
Tehran is far from being an international culinary capital, but its growing range of foreign
cuisines make a refreshing change from the Iranian staples. Like the city itself, Tehran's
food scene is split along socioeconomic lines: southern Tehran is dominated by Iranian
cuisine in teahouses or nondescript restaurants; the wealthier north has more international
flavours served in highly designed spaces by sharply dressed, English-speaking waiters.
Not surprisingly such restaurants are relatively expensive by Iranian standards. But
they're popular, try to book on weekend nights.
For fast food, you won't need 20/20 vision to find a cheap kababi (kabab shop) or other
burger/pizza/sandwich joints around the major squares. Note that most of the places listed
under Drinking ( Click here ) also serve food.
One excellent source of independent, English-language reviews of new restaurants and
old favourites is The Gumboo ( www.thegumboo.com ) .
SOUTHERN & CENTRAL TEHRAN
Many Iranian restaurants are hidden away underground, so be on the lookout for
anonymous-looking stairwells.
GILANI
Khoshbin Restaurant$
(Hassan Rashti; Click here ; 3390 2194; 510 Nth Sa'di St; meals US$4-7;
11.30am-3.30pm; Sa'di) Tiny, no-frills Khoshbin is an institution among Tehranis,
who cram onto the fast-turnover tables for an authentic Gilaki (food from the Gilan re-
gion) lunch. Usually known as Hassan Rashti, after the restaurant founder, highlights in-
clude mirza ghasemi (mashed eggplant, squash, garlic, tomato and egg, served with bread
or rice), kuli (carp roe), zeytoun parvardeh (green olives marinated in pomegranate
molasses, walnuts and herbs) and particularly the fish (including trout, sturgeon and
smoked salmon) - basically, anything on the menu. Look for the small orange sign, and
the queue.
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