Tehran - Iran - page 98

modern buildings in Tehran, blending Sassanian principles such as the grand iwan -style
entrance with art deco-style brickwork. Inside is a collection including ceramics, pottery,
stone figures and carvings, mostly taken from excavations at Persepolis, Ismail Abad
(near Qazvin), Shush, Rey and Turang Tappeh. Unfortunately, the presentation of these
treasures is less than inspired and the lack of useful explanations particularly under-
whelming (ask for an English 'brochure' when buying the ticket, you might get lucky).
There is some English labelling, and English-speaking guides are available, though you'll
probably need to wait for one.
Among the finds from Shush , there's a stone capital of a winged lion, some delightful
pitchers and vessels in animal shapes, and colourful glazed bricks decorated with double-
winged mythical creatures. A copy of the diarite stele detailing the Babylonian Code of
Hammurabi, found at Shush in 1901, is also displayed - the original being in Paris.
Exhibits from Persepolis include a magnificent human-headed capital; a cuneiform in-
scription proclaiming the might and godly affinity of Xerxes; and a striking frieze of
glazed tiles from the central hall of the Apadana Palace. Also on display are a famous tri-
lingual inscription from the time of Darius I; a bull-headed capital and carved staircase; a
statue of a sitting dog that looks like it was carved just weeks ago; and four foundation
tablets inscribed in cuneiform.
One of the more startling exhibits is the Salt Man from Zanjan. He's thought to have
been a miner who died in the 3rd or 4th century AD, but whose white-bearded head, leg in
a leather boot and tools were preserved by the salt in which he was buried. More comical
is a bronze statue Parthian prince 'Shami' found in Khuzestan, whose cheesy mous-
tache looks out from a head obviously made separately from the much larger body. Look
also for the impressive selection of Lorestan bronzes , dating back to the 8th century BC.
There's a small cafe ( 9am-5pm) in a courtyard behind the museum.

Museum of the Islamic Period یماسا هرود هزوم
( 6670 2061; Si Tir St; 9am-5pm Tue-Sun) Next door to the National Museum and
part of the same complex, this museum had been closed for several years when we passed
and had a small but worthwhile exhibit of Silk Road artefacts in its place; staff assured us
the main museum would reopen 'soon, insh'Allah'. When it does you'll find two floors
exhibiting arts and antiquities from throughout the Islamic period. In the past, these in-
cluded calligraphy, carpets, ceramics, woodcarving, sculpture, miniatures, brickwork and
textiles. The collection includes silks and stuccowork from Rey, portraits from the Mon-
gol period, a collection of Sassanian coins and gorgeous 14th-century wooden doors and
windows. Look also for the beautiful Paradise Door , a 14th-century lustre-painted

MUSEUM