Argentina - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 90

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and precipitation but with very distinct
seasons - very wet in summer, dry (or at
least not so wet) in winter. The park is
frequently covered in a low-lying mist, the
signature feature of cloudforests, protecting
the plants and animals beneath it. El Rey is
particularly good for birdwatching : the
giant toucan is the park's symbol, and is
easily spotted, while at least 150 other bird
species also live here, as well as jaguar and
howler monkeys.
There is just one access road to the
park (the RP20). The easiest way to
discover the park is on an organized trip
from Salta (see p.91), but if visiting
independently it is advisable that you
take a 4WD and check in with the
guardaparques at the park entrance
before you set off. The only option for
an overnight stay at the park is to pitch
a tent at one of the two official camping
spots, basic but with toilets and showers.
Again, check with the guardaparques at
the entrance for directions and prices.

Nevado del Cachi (6380m), 15km to the
west, looms over the town.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Truth is, there's not a great deal to detain
you in Cachi other than the tranquil
and picturesque nature of the place itself.
A small Plaza Mayor , shaded by palms
and orange trees, marks the centre of
town and on the north side you'll find
the well-restored Iglesia San José . Its
bright white exterior gives way to an
interior made almost entirely, from pews
to confessional, of porous cactus wood.
Not far away, the Museo Arqueológico Pío
Pablo Díaz (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat &
Sun 10am-1pm; AR$2) displays local
archeological finds in an attractive
building with a wonderful patio. For
the more energetic, a hiking track to
the west of the village will lead you to
Cachi Adentro (6km), where you'll have
wonderful views of the surrounding
landscape and may see the endless fields
of drying paprika which line the route
from March to May.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus Buses from Salta (and local buses from nearby
villages) drop passengers off at the main square. From
there all services are within walking distance. There are
frequent services to Salta (2hr) and local destinations.

VALLES CALCHAQUÍES
To the south of Salta lie the stunning
VALLES CALCHAQUÍES , the valleys of the
Río Calchaquí, fed by snowmelt from the
Andes. Here you'll find some of the highest
vineyards in the world. You can rent your
own car from Salta to explore the area,
which allows you to loop round via the
amazing Cuesta del Obispo mountain pass ,
visit the wonderful cactus forests of the
Parque Nacional Los Cardones , stop off
in the little towns of Cachi and Cafayate ,
and return to Salta via the incredible rock
formations of the Quebrada de Cafayate.
There are also tours from both Cafayate
and Salta - or Cachi and Cafayate are both
connected to Salta by bus (though not
really to each other).

ACCOMMODATION
There are relatively few budget places to stay in Cachi
itself.
Llaqta Mawka Ruíz de los Lanos s/n T 03868 491 016,
W hotelllaqtamawka.todowebsalta.com.ar. Welcoming inn
that has made a concerted effort to respect local building
and decoration customs and techni ques an d offers interes-
ting tours of the immediate region. AR$280
Municipal Camping Av Automóvil Club Argentina (at
the end) T 03868 491 053. Basic clean camp site, w ith
cabins on offer. Pool and shaded areas. Camping AR$30

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
El Cortijo Av Automóvil Club Argentino
s/n T 03868 491 034, W elcortijohotel.com.
In a colonial house at the bottom of the
hill, this is good value, with its unusual
native-style decor combined with
sophisticated neocolo nial fur nishings and
very attentive service. AR$460

CACHI
CACHI lies around 160km southwest of
Salta, along an incredibly scenic route
with mountainous views across lush
valleys. Cachi is small and still quite
undiscovered, but what it lacks in
services, it makes up for in scenery and
location. The permanently snow-covered