Argentina - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 85

the walking trails and the Garganta del
Diablo walkway.
Several well-signposted trails (most
wheelchair-accessible) take you along
a series of boardwalks and paths to the
park's highlights. The Paseo Superior ,
a short trail that takes you along the
top of the first few waterfalls, makes
a good introduction. For more drama,
and a much wetter experience, the
Paseo Inferior winds down through the
forest before taking you to within metres
of some of the smaller falls. At the
bottom of this trail, a regular free boat
service leaves for Isla San Martín , a rocky
island in the middle of the river. Note
that the boat doesn't run when water
levels are high afer heavy rains. The same
jetty is also the departure point for more
thrills-oriented boat rides, such as those
offered by Iguazú Jungle (see p.87).
At the heart of the falls is the truly
unforgettable Garganta del Diablo
(The Devil's Throat), a powerhouse
display of natural forces in which 1800
cubic metres of water per second hurtles
over a semicircle of rock into the misty
river canyon below. The 1km boardwalk
takes you to a small viewing platform
within just a few metres of the staggering,
sheer drop of water. Often shrouded in
mist during winter mornings and early
afternoons, the Garganta del Diablo is
best visited later in the day, when the
views tend to be clearer.

a visit - along with the busy market town
of San Salvador de Jujuy , with its palm
trees and wild Andean feel. As you
head further north, the seven-coloured
Quebrada de Humahuaca ravine can be
seen from the small mud-brick towns of
Tilcara and Humahuaca .

1

SALTA
SALTA is one of Argentina's most elegant
provincial capitals, with leafy plazas,
well-preserved colonial architecture and,
thanks to the altitude, a pleasantly balmy
climate during the summer. In the winter
months temperatures drop dramatically,
and snow is not uncommon. Throughout
the city, and in its hotels, restaurants and
museums, there's a strong emphasis on
the culture of the Andes, and you'll
notice that the food is spicier than in the
south of the country. Attractions include
the cable-car ride to the top of Cerro San
Bernardo ; a peach-coloured Neoclassical
church; and wonderful peñas that mix
spicy food and live Andean music.
Salta is a great jumping-off point for
the high passes of the Quebrada del Toro
- ideally viewed from the Tren a las Nubes
- and for the Valles Calchaquíes , where you
can stay overnight among the vineyards
of Cafayate . A less-visited option is the
cloudforest national park of El Rey , to the
east. Salta has scores of good backpacker
hostels, but these tend to fill up quickly
at weekends and during public holidays,
making advance booking essential.

The Northwest
Argentina's northwest is an area of
deserts, red earth and whitewashed
colonial churches, punctuated with
pockets of cloudforest and lush green
jungle. The pretty and inviting city of
Salta is known for its well-preserved
colonial architecture and makes a great
base for visiting the wonderful natural
formations of the Quebrada del Toro and
Quebrada de Cafayate , as well as the
stylish wine-producing villages of the
Valles Calchaquíes , such as Cafayate . To
the north of Salta loom three jungle-clad
cloudforests - El Rey above all is worth

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
he verdant Plaza 9 de Julio lies at the
heart of Salta, with scenic cafés nestled
under its arches - in the evening the
whole place is lit up, and half of Salta
seems to descend on the square for an
evening stroll.

Plaza 9 de Julio
On the southern side of the leafy plaza,
the whitewashed Cabildo houses the
Museo Histórico del Norte (Tues-Fri
9am-7pm, Sat & Sun 9.30am-1.30pm
& 3-7pm; AR$10, free before 10am
Wed; W museonor.gov.ar), which displays
an eclectic array of artefacts, from