Venezuela - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 891

SAN FERNANDO DE APURE
Founded as a missionary outpost in
the seventeenth century, SAN FERNANDO
DE APURE is now an important trading
centre. There's virtually nothing here to
detain tourists, but some pass through
on the way to the southern hatos or
to Amazonas.

ACCOMMODATION
Budget accommodation in San Fernando de Apure is
shoddy and overpriced, but su cient for a short stopover.
La Fuente Av Miranda, west of Paseo Libertador T 0247
342 3233. With clean rooms (all en suite) which supply
nothing more than the basics, La Fuente is a passable
option in a useful location close to the bus terminal. Open
the reception booth door rather than speaking through
the mouse-hole in its black glass. Rooms all have a/c,
while the illegible numb ers scraw led on the doors may
make finding yours tricky. BsF180
La Torraca Paseo Libertador 8 T 0247 342 2777. Check
out what looks like the world's first electronic computer in
the reception and the lift with carpeted walls. Rooms are
basic, although all come with a/c, TV and e n suite. T he tour
agency in reception has long been closed. BsF190

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Most of the action is concentrated along
the wide Paseo Libertador, while three
blocks to the west, the mercifully calm
Plaza Bolívar is towered over by the
Catedral de San Fernando . Designed by
a German architect, the church looks
more like an Art Deco aircraft hangar
than a place of worship, although the
acoustics are excellent within. Another
marginally diverting sight is the bizarre
fountain at the roundabout of Paseo
Libertador and Miranda, featuring
caimans that spout water when the city
occasionally turns it on.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus The terminal is three blocks northwest of the
hotels listed below, although a taxi is a good idea after
dark. Buses for Puerto Ayacucho and Valencia depart when
full; simply grab a seat and wait. There are no direct buses
to Ciudad Bolívar; you must first go to Puerto Ayacucho,
then change buses.
Destinations Barinas (several daily; 8hr); Caracas (several
daily; 8hr); Maracay (hourly; 7hr); Puerto La Cruz (daily at
4.30pm; 12hr); San Cristóbal (daily at 5pm; 13hr); Valencia
(hourly; 7hr); Puerto Ayacucho (hourly; 7hr).

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EATING
Eating here is a slightly more promising endeavour, with
a number of restaurants serving famed llanero beef.
Panadería San Bernardo Av Carabobo, 3 blocks west of
the Monumeto Páez T 0424 314 3602. Very popular place
specializing in quantity rather than quality, with arepas ,
empanadas , beans and other predictably Venezuelan fare
purchased by the kilo (BsF80) from the cheerful staff. The
coffee is particularly good (BsF4). Daily 7am-10pm.
Restaurant Independencia C Independencia, at Av
Carabobo T 0247 341 3446. Everything is carved out of wood
at the town's most popular steak spot, including, it seems, the
no-nonsense burly kitchen staff. Serving the best churrasco
(BsF60) in town, this is the place to sample the excellent
llanero beef, which comes straight from the ranches. Also
does a good carne guisada (BsF35). Daily 7am-3pm.
Rueda Caiman Av Miranda, opposite Hotel La Fuente . It's
not what the doctor would order, but it's exactly what you'll
want after the long bus ride in. This popular street vendor

LOS LLANEROS
Many comparisons have been drawn between the llaneros and the cowboys of the American
West. Known for being tough and independent, both are portrayed as embodying the spirit of
their countries. Other similarities include their legendary penchants for drinking, gambling and
singing sad ballads.
The mixed-blood llaneros captured the nation's imagination during the war of
Independence as word of their ferocity spread. Their role in the struggle was integral,
and their switch of allegiance in the middle of the war was one of the principal reasons for
Bolívar's victory.
The llaneros preserve a strong culture; living and working in secluded groups on ranches for
much of the year, they hold various competitions to showcase their fierce machismo. One of
the most popular is coleo . Riding horseback, competitors race to grab a running bull or calf by
the tail and use it to make it stumble; the one who takes the animal down wins. Another
popular pastime is contrapunteo , during which two llaneros compete by rapping improvised
insults at one other to the beat of música llanera, a regional music distinctive for its employment
of harps, ukelele-like guitars and persistent wailing.